With a 180/60 tire, it got wider and the chain started hitting. Let’s check how much clearance we can get.
Well, before that I checked it by hand. The countershaft area (drive sprocket and clutch center nut) goes through repeated on/off rotation, so it loosens easily.
• Don’t reuse the lock nut.
• Bend the lock washer in two places
and you’ll have peace of mind.
We’ll look into narrowing the spacer width plus using an offset sprocket to see if we can gain a bit of clearance.
I’ll make a sprocket offset plate as a simple solution. Then it’s done once we secure the sprocket mounting holes. If you can punch it out in a flash, the work goes fast.
We did manage to clear it. But now we have a problem: we can’t choose the final drive ratio.
Front minimum is 16T, rear maximum is 48T. That would make it longer geared than it is now.
I made the cracked engine hanger. It’s a straight shape without a radius.
The edges are radiused for a smooth finish.
It’s leaning about 19 degrees… I suggested we might want to straighten it out since it’s heavy to lift.
We’ll cut it at an angle, prep a solid bevel, and weld it up.
Then we’ll dress it, paint it black to hide the work, and use the usual spring.
The GSXR1100 has pretty short springs stock, so we’ve re-welded and repositioned the spring pin on the stand side.
With the spring cover on, it operates smoothly with a light feel and low rate—really nice.
When modifying the stand, it’s also important to make sure it doesn’t become a “ballerina.”
About 13 degrees. That should be just right.
That’s all for today!
