Let’s do a Deco-mainte and New Tech oil change.
The spark wasn’t firing at all, but once we cleaned it, it’s firing great. The other cylinders are also firing perfectly with no issues. Let’s go ahead and swap out the spark plugs.
Let’s check the rear wheel. The distance collar is moving quite a bit and rattling around.
I’ve adjusted it.
The hub damper has good thickness and looks solid. For aftermarket wheels, the rear damper capacity is really important. I’ve seen some wheels with thin hubs and dampers that crack surprisingly often.
I thought the oil seal might not be necessary, but I’m not going to do anything unusual—I’ll put it back as is.
The collar is worn where the oil seal contacts it. That means the oil seal is working well. It does add a little resistance, which makes the wheel and everything around it slightly heavier to turn.
The pads are almost gone, so let’s replace them while we’re at it.
The front distance collar looks good. The bearings are fine too.
25 millimeters? That’s pretty thick. Go easy on the water washing.
The caliper is in great shape. It operates smoothly with no issues.
We should check the caliper alignment a bit. Let’s replace the pads too.
Brembo calipers need regular lubrication or they’ll rust. The pins are steel and the levers are aluminum, so they’ll get sloppy if you don’t maintain them.
The throttle is in great condition. Let’s clean it and apply a thin coat of engine oil.
The pedal has shielded bearings, so I’ll just do a visual check.
The Pokidam is rusted, so I’ll swap it out for a grease-packed type this time.
Let’s clean and lubricate the side stand too.
I’ve added shims to reduce play and adjusted it.
I try not to look too closely at forced opening and closing. Adjusting with a vacuum gauge is tedious work.
This is about as far as we can go. The V-seal probably isn’t in great shape—if I push it, it settles down, but when I let off, it drifts up or down. It’s best not to push too hard.
We’re putting this on hold for now.
