Outer diameter 36.00mm, inner diameter 25.00mm made on the lathe, and I cut the slit with a contour cutter since it’s tedious. The wall thickness is about 10mm.
Of course, the larger the inner diameter, the stronger the spreading force, so make it with a good balance of wall thickness.
Set it on the bearing puller and apply just a little tension to the puller by hand. *Be careful here—if you apply too much or too little tension, it won’t rock as well.
Lubricate lightly before pulling it out. You can heat it if needed, but be careful if it’s painted.
You don’t need to expand it too much. Just enough so it’s slightly wider than the inner tube. If you expand it too much, the collar you made will be difficult to use next time, so please keep it moderate.
Absolutely no brute force! Don’t apply the puller directly
The force on the bearing puller’s frame is tremendous. Especially with wheels and aluminum parts, there’s a very high chance of leaving marks.
I recommend putting something in between before using it.
Then just pull the puller and it comes off easily
If you use the same method, I think you can remove it reliably even 1000 times. The initial setup is a bit tedious, but future work will go smoothly, so it’s reassuring to make the tools properly and get through it.
Z-series, GSX750/1100S, and SRX400/600 etc. have metal remaining on the bottom case side, so I think you can remove it using the same method.
Slow and steady wins the race! If you work with the mindset of absolutely no brute force, I think you’ll have fewer troubles. Use this as a reference, and thanks for reading.
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