The tank was extremely rusty, so we also performed rust removal and fine coating treatment.
The inside of the carburetor was completely covered in rust. Water, perhaps? It had settled, and the areas in contact with the bottom had rusted.
By the way, we have a lid made each time before the treatment is applied.
It came back. (About one month.) Not only the bottom, but the top surface is also beautifully finished.
Tanks that are rusty on the bottom often have the same condition on the top surface, so check it out. Also, it’s best to avoid casual DIY coating. Once applied, it’s virtually impossible to remove it all cleanly. If you’re unsure, it’s safer to just do rust removal.
Back to maintenance. For the oil change, we selected NUTEC NC41 (Pine).
The front and rear wheel bearings had a bit of play, so we adjusted them.
The front and rear calipers looked good with no major dirt. Operation is fine.
Brake fluid should be changed once a year. It’s a bit cloudy.
Let’s clean and lubricate the pegs and side stand too. NC100 grease is holding up well. Since it’s originally white grease, it’s easy to judge discoloration.
The levers still have oil on them, so we’re good. We keep clutch boots in stock, so we’ll replace it.
SKF gets stiff after some time too. Lubricating it similarly improves inner tube durability.
The air filter is clean.
