Let’s continue.
We’ll reuse the needle valve. This rubber type lasts quite a long time.
Unless the tank has severe rust or the gasoline gets stale, I don’t think you’d need to replace it very often.
A little trick: putting a cap on it can prevent overflow to some degree.
However, there are drawbacks. If it’s quite rusty, rust can accumulate here and cause a hard-to-diagnose problem—fuel starvation symptoms at high speed.
Well, as long as it’s not severely rusted, you should be fine.
There’s only one synchronization screw, so there’s a limit to what we can do.
This seemed to be the best setting.
Compression check requested. Looks good, no issues.*4
Honda OEM grip heater installation requested. A bit of high-throttle modification.
The winding diameter is different and the throttle stopper height varies, so be careful.
It’s a tight fit, but this is the only way. The throttle sleeve must always hit the stopper so the throttle closes fully.
If the balance between throttle cable pull and return doesn’t work right, it won’t snap back with a “click!” and feels really awkward, so you need to be careful.
Do label makers multiply as you get older? I’ve been thinking that for a long time.
Didn’t old guys used to have them stuck all over their scooters and helmets? Well, I’ve become middle-aged too.
To snap the bracket in place, you need a pretty small square punch. Since we don’t have one, we’re using a cable tie as a retainer.
I considered using a relay, but we’re tapping power from the handlebar switch side.
It looks cleaner if you can run the power and ground as parallel as possible.
On the throttle side, the Honda switch orientation is different, so the wire ends up in this position.
We installed it without fuss.
The battery is weak and charging now.
