③Z1R-2 Inspection, Newtech Oil Change, Valve Adjustment, Master Tank Bracket Fabrication and More


Let’s overhaul the rear caliper.

Fluid was leaking heavily and damaged the wheel paint.


When I pulled back the dust boot, there was a rough, crusty feel. It looks like the leak came from the wheel side.


The seal has no resistance and feels crumbly—you can really feel the age.


The corrosion isn’t too severe, which is reassuring.


Polishing will make the surface uniform and less prone to corrosion.
Of course we clean the body and seal groove, but we should also polish the taper on the nipple contact. When you get a chance like this, it’s best to do everything you can—it gives peace of mind.


There’s some pitting on the body side, but as long as the seal stays in contact with the piston, it should be fine.


We apply metal rubber to the groove and seal, then reassemble.
*Grease is basically not recommended. It’s fine when fresh, but as it ages it becomes viscous and causes stiffness. I also think: dunk-wash the caliper, water seeps in and mixes with the grease, then corrosion happens.

Once you start thinking about it, it gets complicated…


Engine oil is Newtech NC50 10W-50 and a filter.


The bent pedal is starting to bother me. While waiting for the oil change, I’ll fix it in the meantime…


I use induction heating to warm the area locally and straighten it out.


All clean!

That’s all for today!

 

 

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