It seems like the pollen weakens a bit when it gets cooler? Or so I feel…
Maybe the rain from the other day helped too…
Work that was supposed to move along smoothly is taking longer than expected.
A shop like ours with few new-model Ohlins upright forks…
Buying a top cap tool is also… there’s a hunch that third-party versions might already exist.
TOP AP-1030
It fits perfectly! Use it while pressing it in.
By the way, the ease of opening and closing is inferior.
I had to think for a while about how to disassemble it, since it’s been a long time.
The oil was pretty dirty.
I filled it with Newtech synthetic oil equivalent to OEM spec.
Now let’s swap to the handlebar (ZETA).
Looking at the handlebar, you can tell which side is smooth—the throttle side—but I thought it would be nicer if the instructions spelled that out.
Instructions with bigger pictures are easier to understand.
Even if you don’t know the language, you can get by pretty well. That’s how it should be, I think.
Hmm? It won’t move? Looking closely, I see it’s not a slot hole.
Subtly good safety design.
Since the fork clamping position is very close to the tank, if I make an eccentric stopper to limit the steering angle, the handlebar lock won’t work… that’s the feeling.
Well, let me install the new tank and machine it, then think about it.
Part of the fenderless setup looks like it might break off, so I’m reinforcing it.
The P77MM seat mounting holes are asymmetrical left and right, so I made the plate by fitting it to the actual part.
SUS304 T=1.2MM
Japan premiere? The Inazuma 1200 oil-cooled Katana seat is actually held with wing nuts…
Probably only the owner and people around them know this trivia.
As long as it doesn’t move, I replaced them with push rivets.
I think soft fasteners work best on soft materials like FRP and plastic—they’re less likely to break.
I’ll put this on hold for now (；∀；)
