Well then, today we were replacing the turn signal.
The rear is cut off and there’s nowhere to pull the turn signal out from.
I’m going to proceed with our usual fail-proof bracket fabrication method (‘ω’)ノ
This time I made it a two-piece structure. *I’m not sure if there was a previous version, but…
It has a fail-proof spot weld structure.
You can use different plate thicknesses and reduce waste material that becomes unnecessary during fabrication.
Especially with protruding shapes—the convex type—when bending is involved, finishing becomes tedious…
I drilled out the center at 40 mm diameter. (slightly lighter)
If you keep it floating properly, you can rest assured.
Most commercial fenderless products are aluminum with no surface treatment and are rigid.
Most of them are gradually corroding.
Be careful not to drop your license plate.
For a lazy guy like me, spot welding is the best.
Shearing is tough, but if you have a spot welder, you can easily join all sorts of things, so I really recommend it for bike shops that do a little fabrication.
The one I use is an old DALEX. I got this from Yahoo Auctions quite a while ago.
Another point is that it’s structured to turn on with the tail light.
Making it nut-less greatly improves workability.
I think it’s good to keep the number of parts as small as possible.
Like this, I turn it on and bolt the base together.
This is the kind of mounting method we have (‘ω’)ノ
I reused the reflector and fixed it to the Kawasaki license plate holder from the other day.
Awesome—Kawasaki OEM!
By the way, the reflector bracket is titanium.
And that’s how we got it fixed (‘ω’)ノ
To be continued.
