Oh! A Sportster! People keep asking if we don’t work on foreign bikes, like we don’t have any.
It’s a Yamaha, you see. Look at the tank carefully.
The customer requested inspection and electrical work. Looks like it’ll be a bit involved.
They also wanted us to arrange an ETC unit.
I was really torn between the MSC-BE61 and MSC-BE61W.
I also agonized over the MSC-BE700E and MSC-BE700S.
I wonder why I’m the one worrying about this… well, it’s all part of learning.
The points I was concerned about were
“Future security standard compliance,”
“Radio law revision and new spurious emission standard compliance,”
“Slide-type card insertion method,”
and “Preferably simple and compact.”
The Mitsuba ETC units I was torn over all had identical body dimensions.
W81×H22×D112.5 (mm)
The MSC-BE61 looked great for its simplicity, but circumstances led us to the MSC-BE61W.
I really struggled with where to mount the ETC unit.
First I tried inside the right side cover, but it just wouldn’t fit. Under the seat was too tight and risked contact. The only option left was to use the space where the onboard tools go.
So I fabricated a titanium plate like this.
It’ll mount nicely here.
I spend more time thinking about it than actually making it.
The right side cover (OEM option) is a real pain to remove and install.
So I’ve added anti-loss measures.
*Areas under torque aren’t ideal for this. Exterior trim is better.
I’m the chairman of the committee to promote tangless helicoil inserts. (‘ω’)ノ
Try it and you’ll be convinced—it’s a gem worth switching to.
Even in tight spaces, you can insert them smoothly, reliably, and effortlessly.
Everyone, USB has finally gone TYPE-C with 18W high output.
Daytona is amazing.
The handlebar area becomes much cleaner, so if you’re considering USB, it’s absolutely a must-have.
A video on this USB TYPE-C will be uploaded tomorrow at 10 a.m.
If you’re adding electrical components, D-UNIT+ is the only way to go.
Since this came out, wiring work has become so much easier.
If you’re adding even one electrical component, I recommend installing this first.
You won’t regret it.
I’m looking for a place to house all the electrical components. Oh, there’s a bolt hole.
I believe it’s a rule not to drill holes, weld, or modify the frame.
Better products might come along later, and I wouldn’t want someone else to have to deal with it.
So I cut out another titanium plate.
I rarely use aluminum.
It’s incredibly easy to machine, but it requires anodizing or painting.
Untreated aluminum tends to corrode quickly and develop cracks.
When you factor in those costs, titanium and stainless steel can be used as-is and are more robust for plates.
Spot welding works great, so they deliver on durability, appearance, and practicality all at once.
This is the dashcam. It was ranked #1 on Amazon. AKY-958N
I really wish manufacturers wouldn’t pre-apply velcro to products.
This type isn’t very practical—peeling it off every time is a hassle.
I mounted it under the seat like this.
Most aftermarket electrical components come with double-sided tape or velcro.
Please avoid sticking them directly to the frame.
You need to think not just about installation but also about removal.
Rushing through things causes damage and headaches for others, so be careful.
*If you’re doing all the work yourself without involving anyone else, that’s fine. (‘ω’)ノ
As always, I don’t mount the D-UNIT+ to the battery.
It’s best not to bolt anything to the battery. It looks cleaner and makes maintenance easier. (‘ω’)ノ
