It’s rainy, isn’t it?
I actually kind of like bad weather on the weekend (*^-^*)
Let’s get to work steadily~
A frame stand is extremely effective on frames with an under-tube.
It’s a hassle to set up two jacks every time just to check the steering.
If you can make one, the work efficiency is totally different.
It came off. Pretty dirty.
It looks like it was replaced once before.
There are some vertical scratches, but they don’t catch on a fingernail.
In a pinch, Scotch tape might take them off.
It could be reused, but I’ll replace it just to be safe.
I’m swapping the top and bottom, though it’s not in the photo.
Anyone who’s worked on Kawasaki steering knows it’s an extremely tricky setup—the upper and lower seals are abnormally tight.
The seal stiffness makes it hard to gauge the steering condition, which is always the issue.
If you assemble it in good condition right away, it’ll rattle by the time the seal break-in is done.
There’s nothing to be done about the upper side, so I’ll swap in a Honda OEM lower seal for low friction. This has a trick to the assembly method, so I won’t give you the part number…
As I get older… I’ve come to dislike tricks and hunches.
I want to work in a reliable setup every time and do reliable work…
I center it straight and then press it in smoothly.
The opening of the lip on the inside of the outermost ring is hard to see in the photo, but there’s a big difference between new and used.
That’s how tight the upper seal (and lower seal too) is.
In recent years, or rather, I don’t think any other brand has seals this tight besides Kawasaki… If they’re this tight, they absorb a lot too…
Maybe that’s the reason…
This is the lower side.
I’ll check the seal action with the seals I have on hand.
It definitely improves operation and makes assembly adjustment much easier, so there’s nothing but good things about it.
I packed it with Newtech NC100 grease and the steering is done (*^-^*)
Now I’ll change the fork oil.
It was in really clean condition.
After stroking, I’ll bleed the air with a vacuum.
I really need to make an attachment already…
With a simple measurement, it seems pretty low rate? It’s a matter of balancing well with the oil viscosity.
The benefit of an upright fork is that you can rotate the inner tube.
The worn spots (where it’s marked) shine, so you can see them visually. If you avoid assembling from the front-to-back direction as much as possible, the inner tube will last longer.
I left the back of the fender untouched.
After that, I’ll take it for a test ride from Wednesday onward and it’ll be complete (*^-^*)
