Today, May 4, 2022, I rode it for the first time after buying it (ﾟДﾟ)
To be honest, the condition is a bit iffy and the carburetor definitely needs attention—the low-speed feel is really rough.
Still, it’s in decent enough shape overall, so all’s well that ends well (*^-^*)
Let me report on the current changes.
The brake disc is a Sunstar Neo Classic.
It’s a very atmospheric brake disc.
Left side holes Right side holes
I’m a fan of drilled brake discs.
First, the holes make it lighter, the cooling effect is better, the pads stay fresher, and it should resist warping from heat. So definitely go with drilled, won’t you?
The rear disc is a WRF022W Works Expand rear floating disc rotor 220φ (STD 240φ → 220φ)for GSX-R1000
I think 240φ would have been fine as is… I basically picked it for the smaller diameter, all the holes, and the floating design.
The rear caliper is left as bare metal after wet blasting. (This caliper won’t be used going forward, so…)
The caliper pistons are Kawasaki aluminum pistons 38φ 43048-0006
The caliper support is a Suzuki 69721-35F00 that I’m using with an adapter (*^-^*) *discontinued
The MOS caliper is painted with gun coat and aluminized with MOS aluminum pistons.
Yamaha 5PW-25802-00 30.10φ*21.05MM (measured)
Yamaha 5PW-25802-10 26.90φ*21.10MM (measured)
For left and right calipers, you need two of each.
The brake hoses are a low-key upgrade to stainless steel.
I used TEE-FIT and made the bracket nut-free as well (^_-)-☆
Like a Nissin radial master, the switch arm sticks out when you grip it, which is pretty annoying.
In the end, offsetting with a stainless steel spacer and using a banjo double gave the cleanest layout (*^-^*)
The master tank was made using my usual A+B+C strategy (^_-)-☆
The mirrors are two left mirrors from a Yamaha Bolt 950.
Yamaha 1XC-26280-20
The license plate holder is Kawasaki OEM 13091-1913.
It gently guards with plastic… perfect (*^-^*)
The horn is Honda OEM 38110-GFL-013
This gave it a slimmer face?
The headlight is OEM from leftover CB1100 SC65 and CB1300SF units.
The back case is black plastic, so it’s lightweight and prevents shorts.
A multi-reflector is lightweight with good light gathering and solid luminous intensity.
I use multi-reflectors so much I even put one on my GS1000S. Good stuff is worth using! That’s what I think (/ω＼)
The difference between the head and oil pan side is surprisingly large… educational.
I don’t like co-tightening things to the handlebar post clamp.
It hurts serviceability and clutters the view. Clean and simple is very important.
The grips are Renthal G097 trial grips in black (hard compound)
Very thin and hard, but thin grips are the best…
Most people won’t be able to stand them, so I can’t really recommend them.
Plus I bought the ones without holes, so I had to drill the ends, making it even tougher (*^-^*)
The side stand is modified to be easier to deploy… or so I tell myself…
The real reason is I wanted to try fitting the dry carbon cover from the BIMOTA stand I saw the other day, so I cut off the bottom.
When I have time, I’ll make one in stainless first, then in titanium.
I’ve only made one side so far (pulling the shaft is a pain)
I beefed up the titanium plate slightly to T=3MM and made it mini RG style (^_-)-☆
I’ve been testing some Yahoo Auctions titanium lately.
Is it okay? Well, it’s mine, so… I didn’t want too much thread showing on the rod, so I changed the length to 140MM (5MM longer).
Looks nice.
I also switched to a Suzuki titanium alloy oil filler cap.
*This might not make sense, but I basically hate titanium anyway…
For now, I’ve temporarily mounted the ETC and D-UNIT. I’ll announce the final location later (*^-^*)
This time I chose a D-UNIT that can provide four 12V ON circuits.
Finally, I installed a Togashi shock I had on hand (*’▽’)
If this were a customer bike, the invoice would be pretty hefty…
I’ve been reminded that motorcycles are an expensive hobby (^_-)-☆
