We’ve decided not to take on new water-cooled full-fairing bikes (*´ω｀)
For us, they’re foreign bikes… the workload is more than double. Of course the labor cost goes up accordingly.
Digging in and getting to work~
(´∀｀*) Hehe The big annual sale—Amazon Prime Day 7/12·13
Discontinued and consultation-only parts are getting pretty critical.
Throttle and clutch cables look like Honda’s stock is running out…
We might find compatible alternatives if we search, but there’s no substitute for the peace of mind of getting the exact part number.
I have a feeling if I pull the throttle body off, that’s the end of it… so I just replaced the cables as-is (*´ω｀)
Honda’s special spark plugs are really troublesome…
What happens if these run out? NGK doesn’t have a compatible option.
Replaced the air filter. The color difference is pretty striking~
Changed the coolant and cleaned the chain.
This is from a while back so I’m a bit fuzzy on the details…
I’m pretty sure the lower stem bearing supply had already ended.
Is it really that old? It’s just a bearing… I don’t feel like looking it up every time.
UPPER side 47×26×15
LOWER side 55×30×17 Use Suzuki 09267-30010~
Punch out the old races.
You have to be careful with aluminum frames or you’ll have a bad time.
It’s a bike tool but it’s actually pretty excellent.
Park Tool RT-2
You want to avoid using chisels, round bars, or pressing one side at a time (; ･`д･´)
Rarely seen condition… really. There’s nothing but room for improvement.
I use a modified punch to press in the bearing races.
I press one side as the reference, then work the other side in gradually, then flip and press the other side—that’s how it goes.
I used to tap them in with a hammer back in the day.
The upper side is manageable, but the lower side is awkward to reach. The factory special tool with the nut for pressing is such a hassle that I lost motivation, so I modified a punch instead.
Check visually that it’s seated properly.
In a few years, I bet we’ll be able to see this stuff on a monitor.
After installing the race on the frame side, I feel out the friction between the bearing and seal.
This type of seal is fine, but there are seals like Kawasaki’s that work really well. (Gets super stiff.)
With a seal that works well, if you adjust the stem appropriately at first, the seal will absorb some play initially, but later it’ll get sloppy.
Check first, check second—that’s what matters.
Pack grease thoroughly into the race and bearing sides.
Good manufacturers have double stem nuts—that’s nice~
With double nuts you can apply preload and adjustment is super easy.
Polished it up, but next time we do a fork OH we’ll need to re-plate it.
Replaced fluid for three calipers.
Changed the oil to Shell Advance Ultra 4T 10W-40
