Is it a night during Golden Week?
Everyone’s excited about the long holiday—it’s nice!
It might even be longer than the year-end and New Year holidays.
Now let’s continue (*´ω｀*)
Rare DR8EA
We forcibly replace DR8EA with JR8B (*´ω｀*)
The new one is JR8B
A standard plug for oil-cooled engines? (Always in stock).
I believe JR8B > DR8EA.
The outer electrode length is slightly shorter than the DR8EA,
and both corners of the tip are cut, reducing the weight of the tip.
This reduces resonance of the electrode due to engine vibration and increases durability against electrode breakage.
I believe it’s safe to say this is an evolved model.
Please definitely switch to JR8B.
JR8C tends to misfire more on bikes that run poorly (by our standards?)
Never use iridium plugs on bikes with questionable carburetor setups.
JR8B is the safest, most affordable, and most durable option—it’s the best.
So small yet 18W output!
Back in the day, you couldn’t do it without a relay.
This compact TYPE-C is amazing!
Please use Daytona.
It’s small, so installation is no problem!
People who installed USB TYPE-A back in the day are a bit disappointed.
That’s just how times change…
This regulator has quite a punch…
I’ve only been seeing MOS types recently, so I’m a bit surprised.
Well, we took the photo at the highest voltage state, so rest assured.
I washed the air filter!
To minimize scratches when removing the muffler
“A, I, U, E, O”
It’s pretty difficult to avoid scratches 100%.
We do our best to minimize them, but if scratches happen anyway, we accept it.
Our job isn’t to prevent scratches…
Surprisingly, reusable cable ties work great.
They’re especially useful when flanges are annoying.
For under-tube protection, we use“the thickest one from Monotaro’s so-called shape-memory type”
and it works the best.
I changed the engine oil.
I don’t like drain plugs with large heads, so I switched to a smaller one.
The brake pads are completely worn out, so I’ll replace them.
The piston just goes back and forth but doesn’t return to the“master side”… That’s abnormal…
It had become somewhat gel-like, and the rod movement was also poor.
When replacing rear master fluid,
it often gets stuck in the pressed position.
The pad wear might have been due to poor return.
The return port is the key to the master?
When disassembling, always poke the hole with a micro drill or similar.
Maximum about 0.5mm.
Usually it’s about 0.3-0.4mm fine.
I’m reusing the rod, so I gun-coated it after wetting.
It was supposed to be done, but it’s on hold now… ( ；∀；)
(*´ω｀*)Golden Week is nice~
ポチップ
ポチップ
ポチップ
↑The long, bright yellow one is easy to use!
