The fuel tank is held in place by something like a seat lock—pretty neat.
I was a bit surprised. The design where you unlock it with a key and it opens is well thought out.
But since it’s been converted to a single seat, the workability is definitely a bit worse.
When I switched the turn signals to LED, the Daytona turn signal relay is the best.
Basically, it’s compatible with almost all stock motorcycle models. And the wattage it handles is extremely high, so you can even use it with hazard lights.
It comes with a conversion connector, and the relay itself is a rubber-mount type. The design works both vertically and horizontally, so if you’re ever stuck on a turn signal relay, definitely give this one a try.
Fewer grooves make for better looks (more racy). Like this, but these tires excel in touring, wet performance, and temperature resistance—they’re well-balanced in every way.
If you wax the inside of the wheel, future work becomes much easier.
There’s also the benefit that tire wax residue won’t stick as much. When you disassemble it, make sure to polish it up nicely.
I’m setting things up with an eye toward the next job (*´ω｀*)
With relatively newer motorcycles, I can’t instantly tell which side is right or left.
Adding rotation and left/right stickers makes it easy to judge at a glance and improves efficiency.
Custom bike classic: you have no idea where the colors are. If you label things like this at minimum, you won’t get confused even if they fall off next time.
For these kinds of labels, Brother P-touch works really well. Most importantly, it resists chemicals and solvents, and leaves no adhesive residue when peeled off. With Tepra, the ink color absolutely leaves residue, so I stopped using it.
Ideally, you’d hold it gently with something like resin while also improving attachment and detachment efficiency. This part is a Suzuki OEM C-type clamp.
The brake hose attachment and detachment are smooth, and the hose is less likely to get damaged—it’s thoughtfully designed. Using ultra-low-profile bolts for fixing would be even better.
It’s fixed with a single M6 bolt, but it also has a lock pin attached, so it’s a safe design. Suzuki 61196-38G01 It was completely unavailable for a while, so I’ve stocked up like crazy.
I cleaned the front and rear brake calipers. The pad wear looks good and we should be fine for a while.
The rear axle shaft is double-ended with this shaft diameter—I wonder what it’s for???
I forcibly removed the less desirable bolts.
And then at the very end, a leak (；∀；)
Some clear liquid is dripping drop by drop onto the lift??? I wondered what it was, so I shined a light on it and it’s dripping one drop at a time from the FG rear shock shaft.
I feel like I’ve seen this situation before… I figured I’d get a preliminary inspection and move forward, but it turned into a two-step back situation.
I came up with an ABC plan, so I’d like to propose it later (；∀；) darn.
ポチップ
