Inazuma 1200 Full Power Complete | Unleashing BST36 Carburetor Acceleration on Michelin Tires!

Lately, the Inazuma 1200 is quietly gaining popularity, isn’t it?
First off, it has a gentle riding feel, but you can also enjoy customizing it.
You can change the look too, and since not many have been heavily modified, used examples tend to be in pretty good condition.
And it’s very reasonably priced.
Especially if you’re not thinking about resale value, it’s a really great bike.

Personally, I absolutely love it (*´ω｀*)

Michelin Enthusiast Power 6 Tire Change

I really love Michelin.
The ride feel is gentle, you know. Personally, I think it’s a tire you can trust and enjoy because there’s no sense of emptiness underfoot.

Tire weight varies, so it’s really good to know.

Did the handling become lighter?
Is it because they’re new? The shape? The weight? Various factors are involved.
Just knowing that the front/rear is ○○g lighter or heavier than last time
makes it easier to understand and accept, somehow.

Wheel Bearings: Double-Sealed / Non-Contact Type

Factory originals typically have single-sided seals on the inside, so grease leaks more easily than with double seals.
Wear that’s invisible when assembled becomes apparent when you take it apart.

Almost always there’s quite a bit of play. Usually it’s not a problem in use.
Both outer and inner diameters keep getting bigger, reducing bearing stress.
But they’re used in pretty harsh conditions, so if you’ve never replaced them?
It’s a good idea to swap them out at some point.

Though honestly, I’ve never seen one completely fail from play…
That said, there’s no need to push it that far either.
Everything has a sweet spot—moderation, the right balance, the perfect amount.

Oil seals wear quickly on the contact surface.
Incredible! That rubber friction that even cuts steel… you don’t need that.

Nowadays seals are really soft, and Honda’s always been loose with them.
With off-road bikes you’d want tight sealing, but nothing actually leaks.

Smooth operation is better.

I’ll check the distance collar just to be sure.
Almost 100% there’s no problem, but checking it expands your knowledge base.

Wheel bearings shouldn’t be pressed in all the way on both sides.

There’s always a reference side, and you work from there.
Assembling parts in the best condition improves performance.

I’ve finished the fine details.
You know, if you incorporate restoration elements into routine maintenance, things stay clean and in good condition longer.

The technician enjoys working on clean parts too.
Cleaning work goes faster when done right, which is nice for everyone.

BST36 and Watanabe Coil Compatibility is Terrible

The BST36 has a 90° bent throttle cable bracket.
It keeps hitting the coil no matter what.

I could make a coil mounting bracket, but I’d prefer to install it without any modifications.
Let me think this through and find a solution.

What if I mount it from the top?
I thought, but it failed… not quite right… a repurposed custom. Scrapped.

I thought “Yes, clear!” but…
the carb removal and maintenance accessibility is terrible…

It’s not something you remove frequently, but that kind of thing bothers me.

I found a GK7CA throttle cable set that wasn’t used elsewhere.
Suzuki throttle holders have high compatibility, so you can repurpose them freely.

Time passes…
I modified the throttle cable inner length and successfully installed it! Now the carb comes off easily.

By the way, I started by making the ferrule, then determined the length, cut it, threaded it, crimped it, soldered it, and did it all twice.
I’m reminded daily that the world isn’t easy.

I’m using a GSX1400 air filter.
With the 1200 version and BST36, the top doesn’t turn at all.

I’ve also synchronized the carbs—phon! Phon!
E-shanten.
Hoping it doesn’t go back to shanten (*´ω｀*)Whew