Now that it’s clean, all that’s left is to assemble it.
This should do the trick! I’m hoping it’ll shift smoothly and smoothly.
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I’ll clean up the finished parts with wet blasting.
I’ll finish it with wet blasting and make sure to clean out any remaining media thoroughly.
Now, just because it’s clean doesn’t mean the performance will improve.
The only thing that improves is the mood of the person assembling it, and I don’t think the actual performance changes much.
But still, it’s probably better to have clean underwear that nobody sees, right?
It’s all about the spirit—mind over matter, as they say (*´ω｀*)
Let me take a good look at everything I can check.
Wait, is that a step? I thought so, but it was just some light residue.
Since the mating part is a bearing, the shaft must have been hardened properly.
Kawasaki really loves P1.5, don’t they?
The clutch center nut is M20 with a 1.5 pitch.
It’s not a lock nut but rather the type you tap and crush?
I’d like to find a better lock nut.
I’ve covered it with thread locker for now.
The FCC-supplied clutch springs are probably the same rate?
I’m using a suspension spring tester, so there’s some limitation.
It’s reassuring to see the numbers, that’s the feeling.
I don’t want to strengthen the clutch springs basically, so I checked.
Back in the day, maybe the friction material on the plates wasn’t great,
so I remember they used to increase the clutch spring rate to ensure firm contact.
So when you install what was called a “reinforced clutch” from around the 20th century,
the clutch becomes unbelievably heavy.
People often talk about heavy or light clutches, but basically it comes down to the clutch spring rate.
With cable systems, there’s also the friction and lever length,
and with hydraulic systems, the release and master cylinder diameter and ratio come into play.
Once you start talking about it, there’s no end, and if you really dig into it, you have to try &and error.
Does it really move around that much? It makes me a bit nervous.
That said, my Zephyr doesn’t rattle at all, so it’s quiet.
There’s no special trick or secret, just assemble it smoothly.
According to the manual, it should be about 130 N.
I applied thread locker to the lock nut and tightened it securely.
The clutch hub nut and drive sprocket nut
tend to loosen easily, so don’t just tighten them carelessly with an impact wrench.
If you mark these kinds of nuts, when you look at them later,
you can tell if they’ve loosened or not, so mark them.
Also, after tightening,
check things like “does the hub spin smoothly” and “is there excessive play,” and you won’t go wrong.
Then I’ll soak it in engine oil for a while before assembling.
I have the impression that slightly softer oil is better, but that’s just a feeling.
That’s about it, then I put the cover on and it’s done.
The feel is a bit concerning? I need to break it in, but it feels good.
Neutral → Low → Neutral → Low → Neutral
It shifts smoothly now.
That said, I did the break-in after assembly, so it’s natural.
Always break in the clutch plates after replacing them.
If the shift is hard to engage or feels heavy when new,
it might be because the clutch hasn’t been broken in yet.
Actually, even used clutches shift better after break-in, so that can happen too.
This should make a huge difference. Stay tuned! (*´ω｀*)
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