Outlet benefits. Dazzling chrome! The thick-walled and robust “R75090Z ETHOS rear stand” at 13,475 yen including shipping

I’ve been obsessively adding rear stands.
I mean, the J-TIRP I’ve been using for about 15 years has reached its limit and was already falling apart.
Everything had worn down and it became really difficult to use.

I’ve been searching everywhere for a rear stand and ETHOS seemed to be pretty good.
I first bought one from WEBIKE. It was so good that I wanted to get another one, but then?
I found outlet items on Yahoo Shopping!

So I’m going to make attachments to be able to use various stand attachments.

The ETHOS stand is 25×25

Not the standard 21×21 size…
This is also thick and robust.
However, with this size, the variety of standard attachment options becomes quite limited.

To use the attachments I have on hand?
25-21 = 4mm. I decided to look for “25×25 T=2mm” square material.
I want to minimize play, so I’m going tight.

The pipe wall thickness is about 2mm
Thismain pipe diameter and thickness is perfect for the job.
Of course, the weight increases, so
if you’re using it on a circuit or doing DIY work, it might feel a bit heavy.

I’ll make a simple attachment.

A6063 T=2MM
I simply chose it because it was easy to source (*´ω｀*)

I’ll roughly cut it to 60mm.

Since sharp corners won’t fit, I’ll knock them off with a belt sander.
If you want it to look nice, you can finish it with an R cutter or similar. Though it won’t be seen…

Perfect spot! It fits (*´ω｀*)

The inside also won’t fit with sharp corners.
I have no choice but to grind it down with a rotary tool.

If you don’t have one, just grind away with a file…
Even with a rotary tool, it takes about 10 minutes.

Grind until it slides smoothly.
Only grind the corners to make it fit, okay?

This edge burr on the resin can prevent it from fitting, so grind it down.

Since the nut is M6, I’ll mark it with a 5mm drill and then use a center punch to drill the hole.

The knob length won’t be enough, so you’ll need a separate one.
Seven-lobe knob (steel, male thread) M6 thread, 16mm mounting length KSM-32-M6-16

The attachment is now complete.
If you never plan to remove it, you could even glue it?

The thick pipe really makes the plating shine (*´ω｀*)

As you get older, you start to like shiny things…
Everyone experiencesthe “black is best syndrome”at some point in life, and when you graduate from it
the “shiny is best syndrome”might develop?

By the way, this plating is weak against rain, so I don’t recommend it if you leave it outside.

You want to choose the rear stand receiver based on what’s appropriate.
This is a Daytona receiver for the Rebel. The shape is truly excellent“reducing the risk of it coming off”
Since the bike is unstable when lifted, you want to choose a solid design.

This L-shaped receiver is also Daytona brand“and it’s amazing”
The rubber on the J-TIRP L-shaped receiver tears easily, butthis Daytona is incredibly durable.
It’s thick-walled with grooves in the rubber side for adhesion, so it doesn’t slip or tear.
It’s slightly narrower at 20.3mm square, so it can also be mounted on the J-TIRP.

If you have any concerns about using a rear stand, it’s worth exploring options.
Actually, there are cross-compatible options and receivers sold by individual shops, so there’s a lot of room for expansion.

You want to minimize concerns and work smoothly.

So now I have three in place.
I probably won’t buy another rear stand in my life…
This might be myfinal rear stand?

I’ll say it againthe thick-walled and robust “R75090Z ETHOS rear stand” at 13,475 yen including shipping
It’s an outlet item, but I can’t tell the difference at all…
ETHOS’s quality control is amazing.

I’m also interested in the front stand (*´ω｀*)