I had a little time to spare, so in that gap…
I’ll swap out the clutch quickly since it finishes right away.
If you change it now, you should be good for as long as you’re around.
ADVANTAGE FCC Traction Control Clutch Kit Type-D 214-S0229-05
This is the hub-equipped model.
In recent years it’s not really a wear point anymore, but with surface treatment and being brand new, it might be a good deal.
When I thought, “Has a new hub even come out yet?”, it’s definitely a bargain.
The characteristic is that the plate friction material is broad and abundant.
It’s finished in a way that should grip really well. (*’▽’)
Steel plates also have surface treatment.
I’m not sure what kind of treatment it is, but… it’s sure to be good.
It’s straight, so about 1.5 liters of oil will drain out.
Knipex pliers are good. 4413J2
If you stock up on solid opening and closing tools, your work efficiency goes up.
Since we’re not using this hub, we don’t need to check it, but… you’d still want to see it, right? I wonder what’s going on in there.
Except for the GSF, the others for some reason use a two-bolt design.
The balance is off.
With this special tool, you can remove the bolts without stripping them.
The special tool we made is the real treasure. (*’▽’)
ADVANTAGE FCC Traction Control Clutch Kit Type-D 214-S0229-05
Dimensionally it’s barely worn at all, which is wonderful.
There was no burning either, so the condition was really excellent.
The OEM uses three types of friction plates.
By the way, the plate thickness is the same.
With this much friction material, you can feel confident. (*’▽’)
FCC friction plates are all the same thickness.
Steel plates are 1.6 × 5 pieces and 2.0 × 4 pieces, with two more 2.0 pieces than OEM.
It’s reassuring to check if it fits the housing before soaking it in oil.
We’ll add the included plates.
It’s been a while since I’ve done a TYPE-D, so…
You pull the hub forward a bit.
The housing condition is also excellent. (*’▽’)V
It’s become a good era, hasn’t it?
I wonder why it used to get so rattled back then.
I’ve already got a TYPE-D for my own bike.
I have a feeling this is going to be discontinued soon.
A diaphragm would work fine too, but I still prefer the coil spring type.
I’ve got most oil-cooled wear parts in stock.
We don’t retail them, but… they’re always handy to have.
Tighten lightly and check that it spins smoothly by hand.
I’ll tighten it properly to 150 NM.
An impact driver would be scary.
I’m the type who doesn’t want it to come loose.
I’ve staked it in three places. Absolutely secure.
This one is being reused.
Since we’re replacing them with ball bearings, these are being removed.
Clutch replacement is complete for now. (*´ω｀)
