Boom! ( ﾟДﾟ)
Well, the SR400 has gone fuel-injected too… (quite a while back now)
A catalytic converter has been fitted to the muffler, so we need to restore it.
The world has become quite unforgiving lately.
First, check the manufacturing date (*^-^*)
Being overly neurotic isn’t good either, but you can learn the real condition of your tires.
Know your wheel size and rim width
Even if you know your tire size, not many people know the rim width—maybe?
Knowing the rim width opens up your tire choices a bit, and I think it makes things more fun.
*You might discover a world beyond what’s recommended…
Check disc thickness and consult with pad wear.
We measure disc wear and discuss replacement timing based on pad wear.
We want both disc and pads to be well used and retire with honor.
Scrub deep into the chain roller and lubricate ( ﾟДﾟ)
I’m wearing nitrile gloves, so I scrub firmly and lubricate.
By touching it, you can feel the wear and any stiffness right in your hands.
Show the sidestand some love once in a while…
It’s a part that feels friction pretty easily.
But it’s a truly essential part—without it, you’re in trouble. Smooth operation is subtly cool, right?
Keep the spring pin smooth, and replace the lock nut every time.
Honda 95011-40000 55 yen shift rubber
It’s slim, so it should give a firmer feel… or maybe not.
Shift rubber is a wear item.
Like people, your feet get noticed more than you’d think…
Clean the caliper and improve pad operation.
Smoothing out the burrs a bit to help pad sliding should make it smoother… supposedly.
There’s no dramatic effect, but if we can improve things by even 1%, that’s the job.
Wheel bearings checked with a trial assembly ( ﾟДﾟ)
Lately I’ve been checking how the wheel moves by tightening the axle on the wheel alone.
It matched my expectations, so it’s not strictly necessary, but there’s something to be said for experiencing it firsthand—though whether there’s a real difference… I’m not sure.
The axle shaft develops runout with use.
The front rarely has it, but the rear often develops runout.
*Usually it’s within tolerance, though…
If you check it when you remove it, you can rule out one cause if you ever feel something odd.
Make speedometer and tachometer cables last longer
Just remove, wipe, apply grease, and reinstall.
I think the lifespan improves dramatically.
*I’ve barely had anyone ask for replacement…
Don’t chase it—no topping off with grease.
A lot of places top off with grease because it’s easy…
I guess it’s supposed to be service, but… it just adds work, so I’d rather you just put it back as is.
Wipe thoroughly within what can be removed and renew. It should spin smoothly… probably.
Subtly smells like gasoline? Time for a change.
Even if it doesn’t look dirty at first glance, some have a strong gasoline or blowby smell.
Swap in a fresh filter and you’ll breathe easier.
First service, so we replaced the spark plugs!
As expected from fuel injection, they’re pristine.
Models with iridium plugs shouldn’t need checking very often.
The steering is getting stiff!
For now, I backed it off a bit to adjust.
From new, it’s basically stiff—the center tends to click. Just backing it off 2-3 degrees brings it back to life.
Smooth controls make for easier riding ( *´艸｀)
They gradually get stiffer, so owners don’t notice.
Just disassembling, cleaning, and lubricating brings them back to life.
FI is a pain. Tank removal requires four hoses and one connector.
I’m nostalgic for carburetors…
Same battery as a moped?
I polished the terminal corrosion lightly. I’m genuinely amazed it works at all…
Huh? Fuses are surprisingly unchanged…
That’s Japanese quality for you.
It’s a spot that rarely needs attention, but you can’t know the condition without looking.
Just replace them without question.
The main fuse is important too (‘ω’)ノ
Oil change to Shell Advance ( *´艸｀)
It’s a dry sump, so there are two drain plugs. We replaced the oil filter too.
The rear brake shoes are worn, so we’re arranging replacements~
To be continued.
