Ultimate functional beauty! Precision setup of the “TG-RUN × Over Classics Oil Cooler Kit for Oil-Cooled Engines” on the Inazuma 1200

It’s been several months since we received it. Today, the long-awaited paint job came back (*´ω｀*)

This oil cooler also doesn’t fit at all as-is, so
there’s no way around it, but considering the time and outsourcing involved, custom shops really do have it tough…
That’s what I keep thinking.
*Our shop isn’t a custom shop, so we hear requests but can’t do the work

So we did a pretty interesting installation, so let me introduce it.

Request: Don’t route the oil hoses outside

The easiest layout—running it all the way out—was prohibited this time ( ；∀；)
They wanted it to look stock, running between cylinders 1-2 and 3-4.

Since it’s oil-cooled, we can’t use #6, so the layout is quite challenging.

Today the gun coat paint finished, so we’re assembling it quickly.

Installation is no joke (*´ω｀*)

The upper side has completely different positioning and mounting pitch.
There’s some contact, so we’re using a spacer to move it forward, but we’re threading M8 holes into the frame.
This might be the cleanest and most effective way to keep the oil cooler from tilting.

The lower tab doesn’t align either, so we’re cutting it out and re-welding (*´ω｀*)

If we cut this section and weld a boss, we could drop it 10mm… or so.
Actually, I think an oil cooler designed specifically for the 1200 would definitely sell better…
The installation hurdle is just too high ( ；∀；)

The lower side is a stock modification.

We kept only the banjo fitting from the stock oil cooler and merged it with a welded boss.
This way the oil filter area layout becomes much cleaner.
Oil changes are easier too, and we gain distance from the exhaust pipe.

As you modify the oil cooler area, maintenance becomes progressively worse.
Stock really is great.

At first glance, you can’t tell what’s happening.
I realized this method could work on any bike…
Don’t throw away the stock parts!

When you want to pull the hose to the other side~
If you just tie it to the undertube, it keeps drifting toward the exhaust pipe.

We use a clamp like this to pull it across the left-right undertube connection.
The tie-down is hidden, and it looks subtly cleaner.

Crank it over without starting to circulate the oil properly.

Don’t start the engine immediately after an oil cooler swap.
Remove the plugs and crank it over thoroughly until the OP light goes out.

After that, charge the battery properly before you can finally start the engine (*´ω｀*)

So what’s the effect afterward?

Installation complete without restricting handlebar lock angle.
The Impulse cowl won’t fit, so you’ll need to modify it yourself

So that’s how we completed the installation.

This oil cooler is basically a raw component—it won’t fit at all, so please be aware.
• Upper mounting
• Lower tab
• Hose routing

You have to clear all these while also considering hose layout, handlebar lock angle, and exhaust contact.
The hurdle is quite high and parts plus labor aren’t cheap—think carefully before committing.
*We took this job, but we won’t do it again, so please don’t ask.

Inspection is already complete, so it’s just a test ride away from being finished~