Don’t you think the longest part is after you apply the reach?
We’re finally getting close to the final chapter.
You know how there are always things that bother you as you go along, right?
I figure it’s better to just go ahead and take care of them to feel satisfied rather than regret not doing it—it seems to prevent trouble in the long run. (Just my take.)
We unusually went with stainless steel flanged caliper bolts.
The mirror holder was pathetic, so we went with Nissin—excellent compatibility.
Ahh, so clean.
We’re going with genuine Brembo racing sintered metal pads RB-Z04.
The front end assembly is all done like this.
It’s gotten quite neat and had an anti-aging makeover, you might say.
The cotter pin is Honda’s 16φ type, 94252-16100 (55 yen).
Ideally we’d cut a small groove for perfection, but we’re skipping that to avoid rust.
So both front and rear are now clean.
By the way, the front disc slit positions are intentionally offset left and right.
Since an oil change was also requested, we’re swapping the oil filter union to the 1100/1200 type.
The case-side seating surface and thread pitch are common between the 750 and 1100/1200, but the filter-side thread pitch differs. With a double nut, it’s easy to remove and swap.
This makes it compatible with common Suzuki oil filters like the later 750/1100/1200/Hayabusa/R1000 and so on.
If the drain bolt is dirty, replacing it as needed feels great.
We filled it with ELF MOTO4RACE 10W-60 engine oil.
The tank rim rubber was peeling off all over the place and looked gross, so using this product works well.
When working on maintenance, these little things always catch my attention.
Once you take care of them like this, you can feel good about it for years to come—kind of like keeping your underwear clean, if you know what I mean. That’s the spirit we work with.
All that’s left is a test ride and we’re done.
