GSX750RR (GSX-R750) – confusing names are a real pain, aren’t they?
It subtly tickles the enthusiast’s fancy, I suppose…
Anyway, I call this dry clutch the “Double-R”
and the ’89 the “RK.”
It’s like the difference between the air-cooled GPZ750 with and without the F… We’ll work through it gradually.
Dunlop RoadSmart 4 it is.
Lately there are a lot of carryover models… I wonder if that’s just the times we’re in now.
Don’t you think it’s surprisingly useful to know the actual measurements?
2.75-18 110/80-17 case: 111 mm (approx.) tire alone 4.34 kg
4.50-18 170/60-18 case: 169 mm tire alone 7 kg
By the way, the recommended rim width for 170/60-18 is 4.50, so it’s proper.
There’s just a tiny bit of rim runout front and rear. (It’s at a level that doesn’t cause problems in use.)
A common thing with OEM wheels: the air valve isn’t always the heavy point.
Check with a balancer, and if you mount the tire so the wheel’s heavy point and the tire’s light point work together as best as possible, that might be the way to go.
*You can only trust the tire’s light point marking, and some don’t even have one…
Metal bar clamps are subtly great. If you want to make tire changes easier, I’d probably recommend them.
The body is the same, so I think you should grab both 150 and 300.
I’m the type who tries not to make the tire bead pop too loudly. It just feels scary, you know?
Partly because I use old wheels and such, but I do it gently – “pop, pop” – instead. Damage accumulation is invisible. *I think aluminum is fine.
After that, pump in air firmly to keep the shape! Spin it on the balancer, and if it looks nice and round, I think you’re good.
I swapped the air valve to a TR412.
The server’s running smooth right now – more to come.
