[The King of Oil-Cooled Engines] SUZUKI GSX-R1100K (1989 Model) Biennial Inspection | Refreshing with a Brand New Clutch Master Cylinder Tank Replacement

Seriously, seriously…
Lately I’ve been thinking “My hay fever is cured theory”
Maybe the nasal surgery worked so well that I’ve been surrounded by cedar trees and just managing symptoms…
If I don’t get all stuffy in March “Completely cured?” might be the case.

So with that, I’m going to fabricate a clutch master cylinder tank bracket and replace the engine damper.

This included bracket seems to be unsatisfactory.

I think the issue is that it’s being secured with M10 bolts.
If these were M5 or M6, you probably wouldn’t even notice.

Chisel third-class.

I really hate button head bolts. The hex socket gets stripped, and the tightening feel is off.
The design is nice, but there’s nothing you can do about it, so I removed it with a chisel.
It wouldn’t come out at all, and for a moment I panicked… (‘Д’)

Let’s do this quickly, A+B

Assembly is complete like this.
The trick to not failing is… don’t push it to the limit. A relaxed, spacious layout works best.

After wet blasting, it’s done just like this (´ー｀)
I’ll install Kijima “Power Band Black” hose clamps.

There’s clearly a serious exhaust leak, but…

That’s unusual… a duplex coming loose.
The spring and hook are still good, but the wire ring is broken?
I put it back in place.

The exhaust pipe bolts are loosening.
Lately, I’ve been checking exhaust pipe bolts on everyone’s bikes.

That’s because I’m gradually oiling them a bit at a time, considering the possibility they might seize.
If possible, replace with stud bolts or use iron bolts with plenty of copper grease and assemble them.
There’s a big difference between securing with a nut versus a bolt.

By the way, if you think the oil-cooled exhaust pipe bolt won’t come out, stop and take a break.
There’s a chance the bolt is already seized.
In that case, using weak tools could break the bolt, and worst case you’d have to drop the engine.

The engine damper is relatively easy to remove on the GSX-R

With the oil-cooled 1200, it requires a bit of technique.
There’s often plenty of thread locker applied, so it can be a struggle.

I replace the bolts with genuine Honda parts.
M10-1.25 in various sizes is really useful to have in stock.
They’re affordable and have great design and quality.

The engine damper isn’t as worn as I thought.

I’ll finish the crankcase side with a Makita brush before assembly.

The technique of wet blasting from a distance with a soft finish.
It’s not just about blasting away aggressively.
You get a sharp, shiny finish.

Then I assemble each part, feeling the position and smooth insertion, and the engine damper replacement is complete.

Let’s fix that concerning oil line

It’s pretty close. I noticed something odd.
It’s either tie it tight or bend it back.

I chose to bend it back and tie it softly.

I’ll back this up a bit.
Of course, “No way! Absolutely no brute force” with that spirit, I gently backed it off with the power of wood.

I tied the hose top and bottom, creating about 10mm of clearance, so we’re good.

Surprisingly common: middle cowl hole positions don’t align.

There are a lot of GSX-Rs with misaligned hole positions like this.
Well, they’ve been dropped and crashed, so all sorts of issues come up.

But with a little effort, you can often fix it, so give it a try.

Upper cowl bracket installation: loosen the M bolts top and bottom to make it loose.

Make sure to install 09161-06021.
The cowl will crack…

Secure the middle cowl first, then tighten the upper cowl bracket firmly.

By this point, the layout should be pretty much sorted.
It’s surprisingly well done, so a little adjustment when needed will keep that premium cushion damper from wearing out.

And that’s it—after inspection, we’re done!