It’s still temporary, but it’s enough to imagine.
I don’t have the financial means to drop tens of thousands on an aftermarket backstep.
I wouldn’t make one for a current-generation supersport, but older bikes have simpler structures. I had some scrap material from 2017, so I used that to drill holes and so on.
Since it’s for myself, I went the tedious route: drill press, contour, then sander.
I hate the base plate flexing, so I made it 15mm thick.
The finish looks rough in the photo… well, I’m not even sure I’ll use this yet…
That’s what I got. (Left and right)
I won’t add a spacer on the back. Contact areas are relieved with a milling cutter along with lightening. I think fewer components and simplicity are best.
The Z uses a step fastening with a stud—basically a shoulder bolt plus nut setup.
M10×P1.25 & shoulder is 12φ.
So inserting a standard spacer 10×12×15 would be good for the bolt too.
That’s the way to go. Buying is better. It’s wasteful to use rod stock and inserts.
Now I’ll make the step bar. I’ll turn the ball down—if I make it completely round, welding is a pain, so I’ll leave it slightly flat.
Three-piece structure and the step is done. I don’t like it unless my boot sits completely on it, so I made it longer.
Put the rare RGB500 rubber on and you get that vintage feel.
Sure, it feels like a superbike from back then, but I really think it was a great era with everything analog and wide open.
I tried fitting it temporarily. Yeah, it looks nice and understated.
Next step. I’ll make the pedal. No time, no budget. Tough situation.
I had some 5052 aluminum that was a bit thick, so I’ll use that to make the pedal.
I’ll cut round holes where the pedal welds. A hole saw is the safe choice. For a lazy guy like me, a shear blade—punch in, pull out—about four times and it’s done.
I removed an oilless bearing (used GSXR1100). I machined the spacer that becomes the pedal shaft to +2/100, heated it, and pressed it in by hand.
Then it’s cut the pedal plate, grind it, bend it, polish it, and so on.
Whether it’s a chamfer or a radius, a clean edge makes all the difference. Back in the day I’d do sloppy chamfering with a Belsan, and honestly, I’m embarrassed thinking about it now.
I matched the spacer dimension to the original and then realized it was too thin.
Taking it slow worked out fine since it’s aluminum.
That’s how it should turn out.
The right side will be a bit gimmicky brake. Don’t you think a brake master looks cooler when it’s as hidden as possible?
That’s what I meant by the other day’s lucky day.
