Right away, we received a work request, so we’re going to tackle it with gusto, including some manly extra service (*´ω｀*) Somehow, I’m feeling like“I want to add a little secret service”you know.
Since we’re a small shop, if we only stick to what’s listed, it feels a bittoo businesslikedon’t you think? If I had to describe our shop’s motto, it’s like “I made too much stew, want some?”That kind of vibe… It’s hard to convey, isn’t it? Anyway, let’s get to work smoothly.
Actually, I’ve been concerned about this for a while. Brake caliper touch malfunction
There’s a surprisingly large amount of ineffective stroke. This isn’t necessarily air getting trapped; the caliper seal is in poor condition“the piston retracts too much”situation.
If we clean and lubricate the caliper, it’ll recover somewhat, but it’ll go bad again quickly. Since the brakes still work, the timing is tricky to decide. So we’re going to do a full overhaul with just parts costs.
Since it’s an anodized caliper, the condition was very good. That said, there was some debris accumulated in the groove where the dust seal sits.
The seal condition is pretty stiff. This should give us a solid touch.
This is one method where you attach a brush with a shaft to a drill press for cleaning.
The little details are surprisingly important. If you clean the threads in the split part of the caliper so the bolts go in smoothly, you’ll have peace of mind. You want to tighten with a lower torque.
If you lightly polish the NISSIN lettering, it suddenly looks much nicer.
We reused all the pistons. We replaced the seals/titanium bleeder nipple/split bolts/brake pads with new ones.
The effect is minimal, but we did chamfer the steel plate part of the brake pads. It’s a reflection of wanting everything to move smoothly by even 1%.
Now we’re going to overhaul the fork that clearly hasn’t been disassembled in years
The fork oil wasn’t leaking particularly, but the dust seal was cracked all over. I thought about just changing the fork oil, “changing just the fork oil or doing a full overhaul doesn’t take that much different effort”
Plus, it’s common to have oil leaks after just changing the oil. Changing the fork oil after a proper overhaul is less risky, I think.
Since we did the overhaul this time, the timing for the next one is tricky. The inner tubes are pretty rusty, so re-plating them at some point would be a good idea.
We stroked the cylinder rod and then used a Makita vacuum pump to bleed the air thoroughly. You don’t really need a vacuum pump, “but it makes you feel confident the air is properly bled”so I recommend it.
When we removed the wheel, we checked the tire condition, wheel runout, and such
When you remove the wheel, it’s good to visually check the tire and wheel runout, and the disc runout.
That way you won’t have “something feels off?” moments after a test ride.
And run your hand around the tire surface to check for any embedded objects so you can tour with peace of mind.
After this tour is done, the tires will definitely need replacing.
The wheel bearings seem fine, but when was the last time we replaced them? Since they don’t fail dramatically, replacing them at the right time will boost your confidence.
That’s how the work continues (*´ω｀*) Look forward to the finished product
ポチップ
