GSX1000S Inspection, Newtech Oil Change, and More


Back to life after four years. Everything’s now dry carbon—what a terrifying texture? Luxury feel?
Love and care really matter.
Partway through installation and… it makes no sense anymore. But it’s Suzuki, so basically everything’s fine? What on earth is this?
Done. Just one ground wire to drop and we’re finished. It’s better to add the harness to the plan early on.
Won’t come out at all… won’t move… the pedal. The collar flinches a bit.
Pulled it out with brute force. The bushings are all burrs and warped.
Ground it down about 10/100 to clear it. (Doesn’t 10/100 sound more precise than 0.1?)
Like taurine 1000 mg…
It was sticking up, so I poked at it and… oh no. Looks like it might be pretty decayed inside.
Where it came out. See how the hose is kinked on the inside? This is a part you shouldn’t touch carelessly.
Super careful.
Cut it cleanly and always clean the inside. If you don’t clean it, it’s like debris flowing through your bloodstream.
Taper-to-taper sealing, so no seal tape needed.
Reusing the exhaust pipe bolts, so I polished them up nicely.
The hose clamp is loose… I’m not a fan of this, but it looks new so we’ll make do.
It’ll become oval, but I adjusted the thickness with a milling machine to get a nice bite.
Replaced the master and installed it, then… it’s clicking or… it’s hitting.
Nothing for it but to remake it. That’s my suggestion.

Use what you can—that’s the spirit.
You have to write it out like this or nobody notices. Classic.
People spot dirt and scratches, but they don’t notice when something’s clean. Strange human nature, isn’t it?
I made a TEEFIT bracket,
Since it’s a single bolt, it has a lock washer—it’s on the back so nobody notices, but—
there were exposed threads on top of the steering column, so I borrowed one from there. If it loosens and catches the steering, wouldn’t that be scary? In daily life, I’m optimistic. At work, I’m pessimistic.

I want to sleep with my head held high every day.
That’s how we fix it. Turn the handlebars left and right with no contact, use the front stand, remove it with one tool, and the base is locked with a lock washer—peace of mind.
When bleeding brake fluid, apply light vacuum. (Too much might trap air instead.) You save fluid and time that way.
There’s always a bonus: if something’s loose or a hose crimp is weak, air keeps coming out and you spot it right there.

I also heard that
someone had brake hoses made (or replaced), and on the way back they felt the brakes getting soft. They turned around, and it turned out the hose was defective—tiny pinhole marks. Defective product.
Not every product on the shelf is perfect, but normally you don’t find out until you get that far.

With vacuum bleeding, you catch it, so I’m confident. The owner’s confident. And the air comes out so completely you’d never know it was there—peace of mind.
The banjo on top. They absolutely won’t budge on Speedflow.
We had dead stock of this back then.
Somehow we dodged it—phew. If we switched to a hydraulic Bright Logic switch, we’d have more room. (But we’re going as-is.)


A nice vacuum petcock (same model) replacement.

I was prepping the night before the inspection when… sniff sniff. Smells like gas?
Overflow? No, no… the petcock knob area and the diaphragm chamber were weeping.

But the inspection’s tomorrow. What do I do? I used a pretty sketchy trick: “gasoline-resistant grease, Variel-ta” to stop it.
Took the petcock apart, degreased it, sealed the mating surface and O-ring properly, and gas stopped.
It really was gasoline-resistant. That’s how we made it to the inspection the next day.
Now we’re waiting for the tank paint to cure. Hope the weather stays nice.

That wraps it up for this time.
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