Basically, the temperature won’t drop unless you expose it to wind from riding (*´ω`).
The same applies even if you make the oil cooler larger.
Of course, making it larger does allow you to cool it more effectively.
However, in winter you naturally need overcooling protection too. . . . Just install it and you’re good? It’s not a cure-all.
First, why not try turning off the engine effectively?
*This discussion assumes summer conditions.
I sometimes get asked, what’s the correct oil temperature?
It’s the oil temperature reading at the point being measured, so I can’t really say for certain, and the oil temperature differs from the bottom to the top of the engine.
I think you just have to measure based on output and figure out the ideal temperature and work with that.
The image shows readings from the head side and oil pan side.
If you expose it to wind while riding, the difference opens up even more, so it’s constantly in flux. Naturally, if you just let it idle along, the readings get closer.
A rise of nearly 5 degrees in just one traffic light wait ( ﾟДﾟ).
While it doesn’t follow a simple formula, I think the oil temperature easily rises 3 to 5 degrees during a traffic light wait.
However, to drop it 3 to 5 degrees, you need to expose it to wind for several kilometers.
Riding then stopping, riding then stopping—of course that won’t bring it down.
It’s like the balance between income and expenses?
The balance between increase and decrease has become very poor, so it trends upward.
Making the oil cooler larger (increasing the decrease) makes sense logically, right?
Conversely, if you reduce the increase, you might be able to balance it with the current decrease.
I think it’s good to try a method that doesn’t cost anything first.
Turn off the engine at traffic lights (*´ω`).
I basically turn it off for everything, but if you’re not used to it, try turning it off just for the longer lights.
I think you’ll see pretty good results.
The 1200 series doesn’t have headlight ON/OFF, so turning the main key ON/OFF also kills the tail light, which is a bit dangerous.
By the way, the Inazuma 1200, GS1200SS, and Bandit 1200 are set up so the headlight goes out when you press the starter button. You’d be missing out not to use this.
This assumes the clutch switch is working—if you don’t pull the clutch, the starter won’t turn. (Unless the kill switch is already off)
Put it in neutral, turn off the engine with the kill switch and stop, then press the starter button and the light goes out. Try this method once and you’ll find it’s surprisingly effective (*’ω’*).
