Bandit 1200K6 Deco-mainte

9 March 2023

As you get older, you want to keep things tidy and organized.

It’s a hassle, but it’s important to try to reduce volume as much as possible. . . .
What about Fukui? In some areas, people apparently have to write their full names on garbage bags. . .

I think Tokyo should adopt this too.

Anyway, let me get back to the work and continue~ (*´ω｀*)

When you clean around the fuel cap too, it goes “Grrr~” and feels great.
If you lightly lubricate the hinges and sliding parts, it should feel nice.

Please clean the key grooves too. *Make sure to wipe it off.

I also clean underneath the removed fairings.
Not recommended: “Water washing” or “wet rags” Once dry, it ends up in the same state or even dirtier.

The key is how quickly you can bring out the shine.

Just apply no-touch coating and let it sit for about 5 minutes, then wipe it off

It becomes surprisingly shiny and lustrous in no time.

I replaced the air filter and cleaned the inside of the box too.

This used to be trendy, right?
Starting the engine and sucking in carburetor cleaner or engine conditioner
through the carb intake.

White smoke billowing out? Carbon falls and the engine runs better?

Honestly, I’m not so sure.

Even in the 21st century, there’s the whole “removing carbon” thing.
What really matters is piston ring tension, piston clearance, and valve sealing,
whether carbon is present or not… well, maybe it’s a matter of faith.

I replaced the spark plugs.

For carbureted bikes, plain plugs are better than iridium ones.
JR8B

I replaced the brake fluid.

I replaced the fuses.
It’s mostly a good luck charm… the actual effect is minimal, but it gives you peace of mind.

I disassembled the side stand and lubricated it.
This time I’m trying something fancier with fluorine grease.

If it lasts longer, that would be awesome, right?

I also applied fluorine grease to both pedals.

For the vehicle inspection, I adjusted the exhaust emissions as desired. I’ve made the adjustments.
The pilot screw is the most effective.
Even with the same settings, the values detected vary greatly depending on whether the idle is up or down.
If you don’t know this, it’s really difficult to pass inspection on carbureted bikes with emission regulations.

Also, whether the equipment is regularly calibrated or not naturally makes a difference.
Simply put, a tester is just a reference tool.
The difference between having one and not having one is significant, but the strike zone is somewhat broad.

You can get a rough sense of rich or lean by taking A/F from the muffler end, but…
when you really dig into what’s actually happening, it’s “hmm…”

The nights are getting long. . .

Next is a test ride and we’re done! (*´ω｀*)