Is the former world’s fastest coming gradually? ZZR1100D6 Fork/Caliper/Carburetor OH Swingarm maintenance, tire replacement and more

Recently, whether it’s the GPZ or Zephyr effect, we’re seeing more Kawasaki bikes coming in.
I sometimes lament that Suzuki has supply chain issues.
We’re not deliberately moving away from Suzuki.
It’s just that due to how we accept jobs, we’ve had to limit the number of bikes we take on quite a bit.

The details are still under wraps, but we’re going to open things up wide and expand our new customer intake.
If you’ve been thinking, “Hey, I’d like to try that once!” please have a little hope. *There’s a possibility we might disappoint you.

Well then, let’s go for it today too (*´ω`*)

(Free motorcycle appraisal and sale with the rumored KatieX! This is the new way to sell.)

If in stock, fast distribution arrives the next day!


I replaced the bearing on one side and got ready to install it.
It’s nice when things arrive quickly and in abundance—I really feel that.

Being cautious, I checked the pivot shaft and axle shaft just to be sure.
There are no problems and they’re reusable, but there’s some rust forming, so it’s better to replace them during an overhaul.

I think arrows like this are helpful, but then I find myself wondering “up? down?”
The shape has meaning, so basically it only gets attached the way it’s meant to.
The arrow direction is toward the ground.

Alright! Now just apply chain lube and we’re done!

You know that feeling when a bolt stretches, or the torque won’t hold and it just keeps spinning?
It’s very similar to a brand new spark plug in that sense.

At the very end, the swingarm chain case mounting screw threads got messed up.
I could probably ignore it and just use thread locker to hold it, and nobody would notice,
but somehow it just doesn’t feel right.
I basically work based on how I’m feeling….

Tangless helicoil—no tricks needed! That’s what a good tool should be like.

The old helicoil has always been incredibly difficult to use.
People say “installing this requires craftsman’s skill,” but really it’s just hard to use.
If you did 1,000 old-type M6 or smaller helicoils and got 1,000 in on the first try, that would be impressive.

But with this tangless type, I’d say 980 would probably go in on the first try. That’s how easy it is.

I expanded the thread hole to about 6.3 mm (the helicoil tap pilot hole size) and tried to make the threads as perpendicular to the seating surface as possible.

This time I couldn’t confirm the proper wall thickness, so
there was a possibility that installing a 1D helicoil might cause some residual material. I cut off one turn and used it instead.
In places like this, please don’t just casually use a Nutter or similar tool.

I’ve switched all my M4, M5, M6, and M8 sizes to this tangless type.
M10 doesn’t come in P1.25 pitch, so I still use the old type for that.

It’s genuinely amazing how easy it is, so I’d recommend switching all your old types over early for better time efficiency.
I really want everyone to try it once.

Accurate(アキュレイト)
¥13,167 (2026/09/20 20:33時点 | Amazon調べ)
Accurate(アキュレイト)
¥13,167 (2026/09/20 20:33時点 | Amazon調べ)

Duh duh duh duh! A dream Honda and Suzuki collaboration making a Kawasaki?

The Tokico 2P rear caliper used on this ZZR 1100 comes in early and late versions.
The early version has the dust seal on the outside.
The late version has a groove cut into the caliper body with the dust seal recessed inside.
This ZZR is the late version.

So that means it’s common with the GSF 1200 and such, so we use the Suzuki OEM part.
The advantage is that we only need one part number for the order, and the price is a bit more reasonable.
Not all parts used on motorcycles are made by the motorcycle manufacturers.

If you know the parts maker and the specifications, you can use parts across different manufacturers.
That way bikes can last longer, so I think it’s interesting to research these things.
We use Honda OEM steel for the caliper split bolts.

株式会社ヒロチー商事 楽天市場店
¥1,445 (2026/09/22 12:35時点 | 楽天市場調べ)
株式会社ヒロチー商事 楽天市場店
¥77 (2026/09/21 04:35時点 | 楽天市場調べ)

When you overhaul a caliper, always inspect the seals.
It’s also really good for learning about overseas calipers and how they work.

For domestic brake calipers, metal rubber is the way to go!
If you haven’t tried it, give it a taste once. I bet you’ll be amazed (*´ω`*)

The pad pins are also corroded, so we’ll replace them.
They’re the same as Suzuki’s, so we always have them in stock.

With the brake caliper seal reuse we mentioned earlier, the money we save goes toward
replacing parts like these, so the bike keeps getting better and better at about the same cost.
Rather than trying to make it cheap, it’s better to finish it efficiently and do right by the bike.

It suddenly looks so clean and feels really good.
Also, when the brake caliper piston moves smoothly, “bleeding is super fast,”

but that’s natural, because
“air trapped in the system” and “the piston rolling back” feel very similar.
In short, if individual parts are finished properly, all the work goes smoothly.
Haste makes waste, as they say.

Lately, raw material costs (parts prices) have skyrocketed.
This is a bleeder nipple for a S●el OEM automotive brake caliper.
For some reason it became discontinued, and I was wondering what would happen.

As stock was running low, I checked again and found the part number had changed.
For now I ordered just 30 units, so we should be okay for a while.
It would be nice if I could just look up the part number from the parts list for that model and work from there,
but looking at raw material costs rising globally, I can’t just swap things out willy-nilly.

Using the right part in the right place and doing things efficiently—I’ve been thinking lately that this kind of relationship is important.
This is getting long for one post, so I’ll continue next time.

株式会社ヒロチー商事 楽天市場店
¥1,445 (2026/09/22 12:35時点 | 楽天市場調べ)
株式会社ヒロチー商事 楽天市場店
¥77 (2026/09/21 04:35時点 | 楽天市場調べ)
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