“Smooth? Number 8? It was nearly scrapped,” but—Oil-cooled GSX-R750J Revival

My favorite apparel brand “GERUGA”

Sorry! The date shows 4/17, but…
the correct date is 4/21 (;∀;) I’m too lazy to fix it, so please bear with me.

We went on a light tour during a somewhat cold season, and on the way back
due to icy road conditions it became “smooth number 8.”
*By the way, “smooth number 8” has no particular meaning.
I was planning not to post this repair blog,
but they said “no problem,” so I’m posting it with a time delay.

Thanks to everyone’s support, we’ve reached 3 million yen (*´ω`*) Just a few more days.
*Thank you for today’s support as well.

Oil pressure switch mounting area damaged

The image is already cleaned and processed.
Initially, I planned to simply go oil-pressure-switch-less
by installing a “blind plug” and calling it done.



But looking more carefully, “the number 4 crankshaft journal lubrication passage” is damaged…

And even if I tried to build it up as is, it’s already quite thin, so
there’s a risk it could melt into the interior.

The story suddenly got dramatic (;∀;)

So I came up with an idea.
If I make an aluminum stepped collar and weld around it, the oil passage won’t be blocked.
The remaining concern is “cast iron has lots of impurities” and moreover “it was soaked in oil.”

I’ve never really liked welding cast iron, “impurities bubble up the moment welding starts”—that’s my impression. I have no choice but to avoid excessive heat and proceed quickly before they bubble up.

Surprisingly, it went well.
In the image above, “the lower-right mounting boss was handled with threads.”

Pickup coil and base plate completely shattered

It’s pretty rare to see damage this severe.

Right is GSX-R750J, left is a recent GSF1200 pickup.
By the way, the part number is now common—they’re the same.
Over time, unnecessary bulk was trimmed for weight reduction and cost savings.

GSX-R750J 33120-19C00
GSF1200 33120-19C20

It’s kind of nice to hear “GSX-R750 parts.”
I have used pickup and base plate parts, so I’ll give them to you (*´ω`*)
Basically, someone threw these parts away, but it’s great that we can use them again.

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Even the tire is soaked in oil! The oil-cooled legend lives on

The rear tire wasn’t too bad, but the front was quite slick.
The brake pads and brake disk are soaked in oil, so we’ll degrease them thoroughly.

I honed the front surface all around, front and back, then applied wet blasting.

Then I’ll dry it thoroughly in an oven and degrease it again with parts cleaner for perfection (*´ω`*)

Front parts and axle shaft were fine

The back of the front fender was a bit oily too, so I cleaned it up.
The front fork was leaking, so I replaced just the oil seal.

It’s amazing how much impact a crash has.

Brake pads contaminated with oil can never be reused

For stainless brake disks, sintered metal pads are the way to go.

I suspect that in the next 5 to 10 years,
“axially fixed” niche brake pads will gradually disappear from the lineup.
In this harsh world, if it doesn’t sell, it doesn’t get made.

When consumables become unavailable,
it’s almost like “starving the enemy out,” and a pretty grim reality awaits.
In theory, you could swap brake calipers, but
what used to cost 10,000 yen for a pad swap becomes 10 times that, so it’s a bit discouraging.

For niche models, stock up ahead of time.

It fell to the right, but “the left fuel cock knob is missing”

By the way, it’s subtly different from the 1200 series, so be careful.

Parts like this become a real hassle when they’re discontinued, so buy them now while you can.
Fuel cock knob 44306-17C00

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And after lots of test rides, delivery time comes—out of gas??

After riding around everywhere thinking it was running great,
it started running rough on the way back and stopped???

I thought that couldn’t happen, but thinking it over,
“the only work I did was replace the cock knob,”
and I did notice the cock felt unusually light.


The fuel cock will probably be discontinued soon—hurry!

The OEM cock sits pretty low from the mounting surface.
If you casually think “I’ll just swap in a Pingel,” you might find it’s a bit of a hassle.

Depending on the Pingel size,
“you may need to modify the tank side,” so be careful.
The OEM fuel cock is set to “ON/RES/PRI.” When you kill the engine, it shuts off automatically.
Since it’s OEM, just swapping it is hassle-free.

In a word, replace it once and “you’re good for life.” That’s the deal.
Buy it before it gets discontinued.
All oil-cooled GSX-R models use this (except early ones) Suzuki OEM Fuel Cock Assembly 44300-17CVV
44300-17CVV Fuel Cock

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I swapped the mounting bolts for iron flanged ones.
I don’t like Suzuki’s OEM gasket, so I switched to a copper gasket.

After replacing the fuel cock, it fired right back up.
I didn’t disassemble and check, but something must have been going on…
Now we just need to do the inspection and we’re done.

My favorite apparel brand “GERUGA”

株式会社ヒロチー商事 楽天市場店
¥7,365 (2026/09/21 06:35時点 | 楽天市場調べ)
株式会社ヒロチー商事 楽天市場店
¥18,665 (2026/09/22 10:35時点 | 楽天市場調べ)
株式会社ヒロチー商事 楽天市場店
¥2,889 (2026/09/21 06:35時点 | 楽天市場調べ)
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