Well hello everyone, how are you spending your long holiday? I’m working in an environment that feels like summer vacation every day.
No matter how nice the environment is, it’s just too hot to want to ride (；∀；) The best time to ride is during pleasant weather. With that in mind, I want to keep working steadily.
The other day, I went to the JSDF base in Sodegaura for vehicle inspection and actually the LED headlight was a bit off you see.
It was quite scattered and the light gathering wasn’t great, so the light beam wasn’t sharp. I managed to get through the headlight inspection with some wild intuition but since it would cause problems next time everyone’s favorite NOVSIGHT I replaced it with.
I was glad the black body made a comeback. Since the center of the headlight is easy to see, I basically use black.
If you spray silicone spray on the headlight bulb boot, it’ll be easier to remove next time. Also, I sprayed contact cleaner on all the electrical connectors.
It’s been quite a while since the clutch cable was replaced, so let me check!
Previously, I used to modify one from a Kawasaki Balius 250 and use it. If I had known about this cable earlier, I wouldn’t have had to do that.
Nowadays, the power of the internet has become so enormous that it’s incredibly convenient. Well, basically the GSF 1200 doesn’t use cables, so this isn’t really relevant information.
By the way, this clutch cable is also compatible with GPZ.
The nice thing about this clutch cable is that it has a 90-degree guide that can be attached.
By the way, if you bend a straight clutch cable this much there’s a lot of friction and it becomes heavy.
By choosing the right parts for the right places, I think you can achieve smoother operation.
If there’s grease in there, it’s fine, but I replaced it just in case. Using something softer (lower viscosity) might be better. I also cleaned up the lever area and applied grease.
Trash Becomes Treasure * How to Use Free Sites
I store usable rubber parts removed during work like this. Sometimes rubber parts get torn and you don’t want to order new ones.
When necessary, I use cable ties to manage, but it feels great when it’s properly fixed like the original.
When was the rear brake fluid last changed?
When I replaced it somewhat randomly, I felt a “squelchy” sensation. While cleaning the caliper, I got the impression that the fluid return was poor rather than the piston action.
I replace small bolts without hesitation. If it doesn’t come off next time because of this condition, that would be ridiculous.
I also lightly wet blasted the caliper support. We’re planning to introduce a new special wet blaster but due to the electrician’s schedule, it looks like it’ll be delayed a bit. Until then, I have no choice but to make do with the old one.
Run your hand over the tire surface to check for any foreign objects stuck in it, one-two
If this were a B-series motor back then, would a nail puncture it?? The new way to calculate labor costs is terrifying.
The rear tire is also quite worn at the edges, so I think it should be replaced after this tour.
Keep checking and cleaning repeatedly
If the chain adjuster part doesn’t move smoothly, it’s a minor source of stress. I think it’s good to make it smooth so that anyone can work on it next time.
It’s best to keep the chain adjustment values as equal as possible on both sides
No fluid leaks from the bleeder nipple gap
Even OEM parts often have seal tape wrapped around them. That’s not actually seeping out from inside, but rather “the residual fluid inside is leaking out due to cap pressure”
So after I lock the nipple, I spray parts cleaner on it and then I keep sending air pressure until absolutely no liquid comes out.
By doing this, the caliper paint won’t deteriorate and the bleeder nipple won’t corrode. Ultimately, the reason it rusts is because the residual fluid isn’t being removed.
Engine oil is Shell Advance 4T Ultra
I fill the oil filter with oil before installing it. By doing this, changes over time should be minimized.
ポチップ
