THE Oil-Cooled! GSX-R1100J Non-Running Bike Revival? Crowdfunding 190,000 Yen Plan—How to Make the Most of It?

The weather’s been bad again today, huh?
It’s got me feeling a bit restless (´;ω;`)

Can’t do inspections or test rides. Can’t even take it outside to swap bikes around…
In this gloomy rain, I’m just quietly getting by.

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デイトナ(Daytona)
¥3,551 (2026/09/21 02:35時点 | Amazon調べ)
ヘンリービギンズ(Henly Begins)
¥7,920 (2026/09/21 07:35時点 | Amazon調べ)


I’ll go ahead and replace the brake master cylinder tank!

It probably won’t crack, but since it’s brake and clutch, safety parts are important.
I’ll make sure to do it right.
I want to replace the clips too, so I’m waiting on those.

デイトナ(Daytona)
¥2,214 (2026/09/21 08:35時点 | Amazon調べ)
デイトナ(Daytona)
¥2,073 (2026/09/21 09:35時点 | Amazon調べ)

The fundamental main ground! 33860-06B12

The price is 1,850 yen for a lock connector, L-shaped terminal, and 350 mm length (black wire section).
At that price, I’ll just swap them out freely.

The one on the right is used. There are originally two bends.
Given the corrosion, it’s at a level where immediate replacement is better.

The electrical flow should improve by about 1%… probably… Hey Michael.

株式会社ヒロチー商事 楽天市場店
¥2,311 (2026/09/22 18:35時点 | 楽天市場調べ)

Of course, don’t reuse bolts if they’re corroded.
If they break or seize, it’s the worst (´;ω;`)

Honda OEM flanged hex bolts are super useful.
Plus they’re only a few yen each, so super reasonable! There are tons of sizes and lengths, so stock up.

Polishing the crankcase side too makes it even more reliable.

Absolutely using it! Installing D-UNIT WR

I’ve never been so moved by an electrical component.
Without it, I feel like you can’t handle today’s motorcycle situation.
ETC/oil temperature/water temperature/ETC/grip heater/USB
Getting this many signals cleanly from the frame is extremely difficult.

An item that created an era… that’s what I think… wistfully.

デイトナ(Daytona)
¥3,551 (2026/09/21 02:35時点 | Amazon調べ)

I happened to have a good spot for it, so I mounted it there.
Of course it’s hidden by the fairing.

The D-UNIT WR’s subtle change is… *subtle change
・110-series connector conversion
・Battery + is from the starter relay (battery + side)
・Ground lead is from the crankcase
Just doing this eliminates any connection to the battery terminal, keeping things clean.
Of course, since we’re changing the length, terminal modification is necessary.

Simplified the rear turn signal connector to one, making attachment and detachment easier.
I routed the digital gauge power and ground in parallel.
When getting power and ground from the frame, keeping things “parallel” makes for a cleaner look.

Monotaro sells some nice fasteners too.
I really like these large-flange-type bolts.

WEBIKE messed up the delivery time, so we didn’t make progress today.
Almost there.

I made an Amazon recommended products page (*´ω`*)

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