[Unicorn GSX1200S] Swingarm OH & Rear Caliper OH Complete. Restoring “Pristine Motion” with New Bearings and Seals

I pulled out a secret stashed swingarm and started overhauling it (*´ω｀*)
There are people who haven’t looked at it once since purchasing it… it probably won’t come off easily.

With future maintenance in mind

It’s surprisingly tedious work these days.
This OEM loop? hook? also has nice raised ribs.

61196-38G01 guide hose.
The loop opens so you can slide the hose for maintenance.
Since it’s plastic, it also reduces damage to the brake hose.

Personally, I orient the split forward.

Removing the needle roller bearing becomes easier.

This inexpensive bearing puller is great because you can modify it or push it hard.
I have a Hasco too, but it never gets used… maybe I should sell it.

Click it in all the way, expand it, warm the base material, and tap it out—it comes off easily.
The manual specifies a sliding hammer tool…
That kind of work process is something you can’t show people—the feeling of a crane?

Actually, reducing work processes you can’t show the owner tends to be more efficient.
I enjoy thinking about it every time (*´ω｀*)

I’m turning it on the lathe to get it in a bit deeper.

Bearing removal works best when you can do it reliably and easily—that’s efficient.
It took a while to figure out this method.
I’ve had the experience of only the outer shell of the needle roller remaining, cutting a groove with a rotary tool to remove it.
Building tools to work as smoothly as possible might make the job more enjoyable… hopefully.

Swingarm pivot clearance adjustment

It’s not something so grand.
You want to fit the swingarm with dimensions as close as possible to the frame’s inner width.

Bikes without pivot adjusters need shims.
With excessive no-load clearance like this,
the pivot tightening torque can’t compress the frame, resulting in “left-right play.”
Considering the pivot-to-axle distance, the swingarm pivot bears considerable load.
The crack that appeared this time might have been caused by this rubbing too.

It’s good to check clearance before assembling parts onto the swingarm.
Bottoming out comes from the inner core, dust seal, and shim.
Repeated removal and installation on the swingarm itself leads to a scarred life.

You want to get the swingarm mounted right the first time.

The oil-cooled 750/1100 has this specification, but it was omitted on the 1200.
It’s a harsh world where parts lists and manuals don’t teach you these fine details.

Suzuki OEM parts | Oil-cooled pivot shim | 08211-20381 (T=1mm) 08211-20382 (T=1.5mm) | $1.10

Feel the bearing fit as you press it in.
Even with a replacement, loose clearance won’t deliver good performance.

Besides, you can’t press indefinitely.
Do it gently with love and? friendship.

That’s how we replaced and overhauled the swingarm.
Suzuki’s seven mysteries… the chain slider has been revived after being discontinued.

I even made my own Inazuma one from Durakon…

Now let’s overhaul the rear caliper and rear master

It shines beautifully thanks to the wet blasting effect (*´ω｀*)

The rear master cup was pretty worn.
Most people probably have fluid seeping out when they lower the boot.
It won’t fail all at once, but it rusts like crazy, so be careful

We replace these parts aggressively.

We also replaced the rod and shortened it by about 8mm.
Now the brake pedal height can finally be adjusted.

This Agras step uses interesting pillow balls that can be repurposed for other things.
The master-side mount is M8, but the pedal-side fixing is 6Φ.
I forgot the part number.

And so it continues.