Oil cooler first stage fins damaged. It seems like it got pushed or pulled a bit, so they want to replace it.
We received stock items from a customer who took super good care of their bike. That’s great!
Even came with a core guard, very pleased (*´ω｀*)
Now we can finally feel at ease. For others in similar situations, it comes down to luck.
Replaced with flanged HEX 3-valent black (iron) bolts
It was originally iron, but I replaced it because I prefer the flanged type. I need to think about converting the oil-cooled to studs…
Check the clutch plates and the bird’s foot.
Technically we don’t need to remove the pulser cover, but… Of all things the connecting rod is in a bad position = can’t remove the basket = remove the pulser and crank that’s the flow
What I call the bird’s foot (only I call it that) It exists on the opposite side of the shift shaft and operates the transmission by moving the shift drum back and forth—it’s a crucial component
If it doesn’t work reliably within its limited stroke “Hmm? The transmission won’t go in?” that can happen occasionally. It’s important that it engages fully. *Problems with this are rare.
The GSX-R has a unique basket shape with poor plate compatibility
No point worrying too much—let’s use it until we can’t. It’s starting to show some wear.
Clutch plates are FCC brand (discontinued)
Used quite a bit at the circuit, but in great condition. Not burned at all and very clean.
Clutch disassembly requires a 50mm socket and special tools
This 50mm is only used for this, but it’s essential. I wish it had been a coil spring type instead…
It’s actually interesting how many different ideas were packed into that era.
For clutch work, making a “stopper” type tool makes tightening easier.
Oil-cooled GSX-R1100 Clutch Nut Tightening Torque
GSX-R1100
GS1200SS
We aim for a tightening torque of around 150 Nm and secure it. Use a crimped nut “2 crimps + thread locker” and mark it with a marker for perfection. If the marker has moved when you disassemble next time, it means it loosened. Since this isn’t a place you disassemble frequently “2 crimps + thread locker” is perfect.
This is the tightening torque for the GSF1200.From the era of nuts and flat washers.
The tightening torque is about half that of the GSXR/GS1200SS and others. *Same shaft diameter. For the GSF1200, I think it’s safer to “assemble using the later 1200 series configuration rather than following the manual.”
Finally, the big 50mm tightening torque is 90-110 Nm
That’s about it. Why am I writing all this?
Because sometimes you need to know tightening torques, front fork oil types, and oil levels.For someone out there… or maybe it’ll help me out too.
Today I replaced the oil cooler and checked the clutch area. Just a little more until completion~ (*´ω｀*)
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