These days, everyone wants to add electrical components to their bikes.
You search online, work hard, throw in some weird relay, and bolt a ton of stuff to the battery.
But if even you think “I don’t want to remove this ever,” then your installation is too permanent.
Just buy a D-UNIT and install it—you’re done. Seriously. (*´ω｀*)
Motorcycle electrical components run on 12V ignition and ground.
Some devices need constant power (live even when the ignition is off), but most just need 12V ignition and ground.
The tricky part is figuring out where to tap into them.
How many circuits do you need?
Think about it: nowadays, three or four circuits are standard.
• ETC
• Dash cam
• USB
• Temperature gauge
• Ignition kit
and so on.
Modifying the harness to add all this is honestly brutal.
And if you add fuses between everything, the whole bike becomes a tangled mess.
Don’t Y-splice your 12V ignition and ground wires.
If you could tap power and ground in parallel, like outlets in a house, everything would be clean and neat.
And swapping gear later would be easy.
You’d just unplug and plug in.
But people usually grab both power and ground from whatever’s easiest.
12V ignition from the brake light,
ground from the battery,
and repeat that one, two, three, four times—and under the seat looks like yakisoba noodles.
Honestly, even the person who installed it probably has no idea what’s under there anymore.
Think ahead: install every component knowing you might need to remove it all someday.
I’ve agonized over this for years, so I was blown away by the D-UNIT. (*´ω｀*)
Honestly, when I found this, I thought “This is it!”
One unit handles everything—it’s truly the ultimate accessory.
Even if you make a sloppy yakisoba Y-splice elsewhere, at least it’s just for the D-UNIT.
That’s acceptable, right?
All power comes direct from the battery, so the voltage stays nice and high.
You’ll see far fewer flickers and reliability issues.
Plus, it has a built-in fuse box—it’s got everything covered.
Four 12V ignition circuits and ground—D-UNIT 98830 &
I used this one on my Inazuma 1200.
The lid has a hinge, which is a bit nicer.
Three 12V ignition circuits plus constant power—D-UNIT Plus 16075
Buy this and you’re covered with a safe constant-power option.
If three circuits aren’t enough, no problem—you can split one into two or three as long as you don’t exceed capacity.
I know it sounds weird, but it’s the same thing you’ve been doing with the harness all along.
You’ve never worried about fuse box capacity when tapping power, right?
Use this and everything works out—why not clean up that embarrassing mess under the seat?
