Due to mysterious warehouse transfers, the arrival got pushed to Saturday. I was mowing the grass thinking the parts would arrive in the afternoon, but they came in the morning so I had to hurry and wrap up.
So I’m quickly checking the remaining brakes like this (*´ω｀*)
Single-piston brake calipers are all about smoothness.
There’s no burr, but the edges are standing sharp. I don’t think there will be a surprisingly big change, but even if it improves by 1%, I’ll deburr it with that hope.
If you properly maintain the single-piston brake caliper and install modern sintered pads, it’s surprisingly still usable.
A manly service? I’ll throw in a caliper overhaul while replacing the pads
S Hikashi, well, the other day when I checked the pad thickness, I lightly cleaned it and tried to push the piston back by hand. At that time, the stiffness was so bad that I thought washing would be pointless. Time and effort would be wasted.
No matter how much time you spend washing and working out a caliper in bad condition, the performance won’t improve by that amount of effort. To be honest, I think it’s far faster and more efficient to just overhaul it.
When I disassembled it, sure enough the dust seal groove was all corroded. The seal hardens and the groove corrosion pushes the seal inward, so naturally the movement gets worse. When you apply the brake (when it engages), the hydraulic pressure makes the brake work reasonably well. But the return depends on seal deflection, so if the condition is bad it inevitably drags. Poor fuel economy, heavy push-pull, fast pad wear all of it is just downside. If you notice the piston movement is sluggish during pad replacement, you should overhaul it as soon as possible.
So I’m doing overhauls on my own initiative, so basically it’s a service. *Please pay for the parts though.
The piston can be reused so I polished it and used it. The seal wasn’t deformed, but the dirt and swelling are quite noticeable.
I really want a new powerful wet blaster soon
I polish the seal groove with a rotary tool with a wire brush and then wet blast it. Being able to quickly clean removed parts is very important.
If you invest in equipment like bike lifts and wet blasters, work becomes much more efficient.
It feels great to clean even the small parts before assembling.
Replace the boots appropriately! A light coat of silicone grease is optimal
I think silicone grease is the safest choice for slide pins. Using lubricants that don’t negatively affect the boots is important.
If you use grease that swells the boots, the movement gets worse after all. Also, applying too much has almost no effect. Just enough lubrication for smooth movement is what I think is best.
You can also use silicone spray together to adjust the grease consistency.
I’m kind of a brand person and I use DuPont Molykote as my favorite.
So it’s completely revived like this (*´ω｀*)
Then it’s just completely bleeding the brake fluid and we’re done. The touch became incredibly firm…
Perfect!
Is it leaking from around the fuel cap?
I lightly disassembled it and checked the passages and such. There was nothing particularly wrong, so I’m a bit puzzled.
I also checked the escape on the fuel tank side. The passages are fine, and there’s no change when I disconnect and reconnect the hose.
Since I’m not filling it to the top, it makes a hissing sound when it gets hot, so I’m not sure…
The test ride after work is easy, which helps (*´ω｀*)
Honestly, a test ride in Tokyo after completion won’t tell you anything. You can only discover pretty big mistakes or serious problems.
In Tokyo, there’s not enough distance or speed to experience the symptoms, and test riding itself is dangerous. In Chiba, I can easily ride 10 km, 20 km. Plus, I’m not unnecessarily raising water and oil temps, so it’s a very good environment for the bike.
I ended up riding about 40 km. When you ride that much, “tons of things to complain about come up” *subjective though. Rather than customizing, just making small adjustments makes it feel more like your own bike.
I rode around for about an hour and came back to the shop. The stock muffler really is the best. As you get older, if you’re using it in the city, “the stock muffler is the best” Did the GPZ900R really run this hard from low RPMs? I thought.
I really felt that the original is wonderful. So that’s it, I made the invoice and we’re done!
I’m really glad I moved “I can concentrate on work so much” it is.
ポチップ
