
( ゚Д゚)Good morning, it’s 8 o’clock!
Now, I really dislike bikes with poor engine startup performance.
“Fundamentally speaking,”isn’t it?
I think that’s a very common sentiment.
“That’s just how it is,”people say,
and I really
“Is that so?”
Since the Kawasaki allows cord replacement, I tried it and was amazed!
Zephyr 400&550, let me proceed with the story (*’ω’*)


Kijima Silicon Cord 7φ 304-410B
Since this comes in 1M lengths, if you buy two, I think most bike models will be covered.


The highly trustworthy NGK LD05F
Sometimes cord and cap sets are a bit tricky.
Some aren’t compatible with the correct plugs, so please be careful.
*They work, but… that’s not really the point.


If you feel it’s stiff when cold,“yellow light”
switching to silicon makes it feel really nice~
*Water-cooled models cost even more ( ;∀;)


Think of it as sticker tuning and use P-TOUCH to label it.
*I recommend 9MM width as it’s the most visible and easiest to work with.


Unscrew the threaded cap,“threaded cap, flat washer, seal”don’t lose them.


Checking the insertion depth into the coil reduces ambiguity.

Using a sharp-pointed tool to prepare a “pilot hole”
ensures you can screw into the cord section reliably.
And you’ll be able to insert it fully and securely.

Marking with a marker when inserting the cord makes it even more reliable.
You can visually“see it’s in!”and know it’s been inserted.


Once the cord is attached to the coil side, temporarily secure it to the frame.
Adjust the length layout on the cap side.
Too long is no good, too short is no good either
“This is the only spot for each one!”
Find and adjust to that exact position.

Of course, knowing the depth on the plug cap side as well makes it even more reliable.

It’s an inexpensive part, but the effect was remarkable.
“Wow! It’s light!”That kind of responsive feel.
The lost dozen-plus years were right here.
I think most people would be able to feel the difference.