The original plug cord has become stiff and brittle after all this time, hasn’t it?
Thank you all for reading GPZ 550 Communication regularly.
We’re broadcasting to quite a small number of people in the world,
but basically, if it’s an old carbureted bike, I think the flow is pretty much the same for all of them.
By tackling the basics, old Japanese domestic bikes can still run great! That’s the spirit with which I’m posting this.
This time we’re going to replace that stiff plug cord.
Basically, I’m the type who uses OEM parts if there are no ignition issues.
There’s also an aftermarket Watanabe full power kit, but basically it’s a consumable.
As for lifespan, it really varies from person to person. For some it goes in a flash…
Don’t think performance parts will last forever.
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The OEM is already stiff and brittle! Reliability is poor
It’s been 30-40 years, so naturally it’s stiff.
It won’t bend or break, but reliability is definitely poor.
I tried replacing it with the same cord on a Zephyr 550, and the impression improved quite a bit, probably because it was degraded.
The voltage from the coil is high so it flows reasonably well, but it’s definitely better to minimize losses.
Since it’s not an integrated coil, you can play around with these kinds of things, which is fun.
In the case of Suzuki OEM, it’s press-fitted, so it’s a bit tricky to replace.
For a 4-cylinder, buying 2 sets is enough.
Plug cord layout as spacious as possible for good workability.
If it’s too short, the layout becomes cramped and you lose flexibility if you want to retighten things later.
Keep that in mind and lay it out spaciously.
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Once you open it, it’s fine to just cut it in half right away.
What matters is “measuring the depth” and “drilling a pilot hole”
Check the depth on both the coil side and the cap side.
There’s a limit to how far you can screw it in, but
if you know the dimensions of how far it’s screwed in, you’ll have much more confidence.
Let’s eliminate ambiguity, me
The plug cord contains multiple wires inside.
If you drill a pilot hole between them with a drill, insertion becomes very smooth.
If you try to screw it in from the start without a pilot hole, it won’t go in properly, so be careful.
Once you label it with P-TOUCH, the next time will be super easy
I prefer to get tedious things done first.
This coil also has mysterious markings on it, which is really disappointing.
Plus, the polarity is wrong, which is hilarious.
This ignition coil is
right or left? Which cylinder is it for? What color is the signal wire?
If you can tell at a glance, you can easily remove and reinstall the ignition coil without worry.
Once you label it, the next time will be much easier.
Please buy a Brother P-Touch. I recommend the 9mm.
I’ll say it again, it’s not Tepra… Tepra leaves adhesive residue and is weak against solvents and chemicals.
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If you only use 9mm, the PT-P300BT is sufficient.
And so we’ve completed the flexible layout.
Since we’re keeping the budget as low as possible, this time it’s just the plug cord.
If I check the ignition coil pitch and resistance value,
there are actually some interesting coils, so I’ll save that for next time.
It might look like I’m having fun, but I’m getting a bit tired.
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