The Inazuma 1200 I bought this year also has various parts added to it, subtly.
It’s improved quite a bit, which is fortunate.
To bring out that oil-cooled character, it takes a bit of effort and then some.
Continuing from here.
I deliberately don’t use Watanabe for the ignition system.
Watanabe is essential for older bikes.
The original ignition system is likely degraded and reliability is low.
It’s the only option available, in my view.
I’ve never seen an igniter fail on a Suzuki.
Coil failures happen occasionally, but they’re truly “rare.”
However, I hear about Watanabe problems at “a decent frequency.”
Parts don’t last forever, but I’d rather avoid ignition system troubles.
I think a reliable OEM igniter, Okada’s booster, and V+ are the way to go.
Both are designed so that even if the main unit fails, you can recover.
The “booster” just reverts to normal ignition.
The “V+” can be bypassed with a dedicated connector to return to normal ignition.
I see direct battery relays for ignition systems too, but it’s a bit scary not knowing when they were installed or how many miles they’ve seen. It’s better to keep things simple, hassle-free, and high-performance.
PE WIDEBAND O2 – A wonderful item that lets you see air-fuel ratio on your smartphone app.
The only downside is that you can’t save logs.
The sensor is mounted in a hidden location.
The legendary Daytona D-UNIT (standard).
I chose this one because the ON 12V model has 4 ports.
When installing a dashcam, I think the D-UNIT+ with constant 12V is better.
