The epitome of violent naked bikes? GSF1200 Yoshimura ST-1 cam oil-cooled maintenance and optical axis adjustment bracket fabrication, etc.

The year is coming to an end in just over a month and a half.
It feels like it’s been a stormy year… I’ve had various experiences over the past few years.

Anyway, I’ll continue to report on the work.

Engine mount bolt replacement and positioning

Even with this kind of work, there’s no surprising effect…
It’s just that having new engine mount bolts that go in smoothly feels good? That’s all.

The OEM uses the standard microcapsule thread locker to lock it securely (so it doesn’t come loose).
Never use an impact driver or anything like that.
It’s locked very firmly, so “loosen it ~ tighten it ~ loosen it ~” repeat this process while working.

We’ll use Honda OEM parts for the engine bolts too.
Suzuki’s are more expensive and the design is a bit subtle…

Honda bolts are definitely the best (*´ω｀*)

The M10 has more chamfering on the tip end, making it easier to insert.

The lower side has a flange, making it simpler.

If you clean the hole on the case side before insertion, it should probably go in a bit more smoothly.

Engine damper and front mount assembly

Previously, we replaced it during oil-cooled maintenance, so it hasn’t decreased that much.
Since it’s on the menu, we’ll replace it properly.

Surprisingly, gravel accumulates, so cleaning it thoroughly is important.
You can really understand how the crankcase wears down.

From experience, if you assemble this dry, gravel gets into the grooves and the case wears quite a bit.
If you seal it with grease, dirt doesn’t get in as easily and it’s lubricated, so the case side stays smooth and doesn’t wear as much.

Motorcycles are surprisingly loose due to assembly tolerances.
If you check each part and aim for smooth assembly, you might feel like things are running better… probably

Recently, the first in the “absolutely never used” series.
Engine damper bolt (late model)
Suzuki [09103-10100] Bolt (10X20) ¥530
Honda [96300-1002007] Bolt, Flange 10X20 ¥55

Honda’s is black, has a better design, and is more affordable.
Nobody cares about this topic, but… if you’re interested! Please go ahead.

Install the engine and lock it using the bottom as the reference.
Top ⇒ front and we’re done. With the position set like this, we can remove the front engine mount without any issues.

Replacing the shift oil seal

Lubricate well and then let it sit for a bit with a Makita heat gun.
Now that it’s battery-powered, you can set it down, which is really convenient. I can’t go back to 100V anymore.

Removing the oil seal here is not difficult at all with the right setup and tools.
First preparation, second preparation. If you’re prepared, no technical skill is needed whatsoever.

They thoughtfully sealed grease in the lip section, but… I’ll replace it.
I’ll put Molycote fluorine in here.
This improves lubrication and virtually eliminates oil leaks. *Our comparison

This grease is super expensive. Basically, I intentionally use one up per year.
For me, if this grease (about ¥15,000)
reduces the probability of “it’s leaking again~” troubles, there’s nothing with better value for money.

Depending on where it’s used, this grease definitely reduces various risks.

Most oil seals in general go in by hand.
This one can also be inserted by pushing it straight in gently.

There’s no need to hammer it in forcefully.

Is this… an OEM chain?

The front sprocket is also subtly worn, so we’ll replace it and be done.
To be continued.
The preparation of the milling machine for the cam sprocket elongated holes is… ufufu

I created an Amazon recommended products page (*´ω｀*)