Everyone’s favorite: let’s refresh with “oil-cooled maintenance”
First, we replace the shift shaft oil seal. We warm it up thoroughly with a Makita heat gun and lubricate it, then tap it with a slide hammer and it comes right off.
This time it came off so easily it seemed like it had been replaced before.
We apply fluorine grease to the lip part of the oil seal and the washer side before assembly. This makes it smooth and well-lubricated while also shutting out slight seepage. It’s selective in where you use it, but fluorine grease might be kind to everyone.
Replace the generator damper and starter motor O-ring
I like to keep the areas I’ve worked on clean. It doesn’t actually improve performance. It’s a bit of an occult belief, but “keeping things clean prevents trouble.” That’s the feeling I get… It’s like love saves the earth.
By the way, we’re not using anything fancy. Just a Makita impact driver with a stainless steel brush attached We gently polish the engine with just this.
In about 10 to 15 minutes it becomes quite beautiful.
It’s a spot your hand can’t reach, so this is the time to clean it up
You can only clean a spot like this when it’s removed. When you wipe it thoroughly at times like this, major problems are less likely to occur.
The starter motor is body grounded, so we clean it thoroughly and apply contact cleaner to make sure it grounds well.
After all, bolts should be steel! Honda OEM ones are surprisingly stubborn
Unfortunately, this length doesn’t come in black. We use it quite a bit on oil-cooled bikes, so we always keep it in stock. We’ll let you know the part number timing.
It looks pretty cool, doesn’t it?
Oil-cooled engine vibration control!
We’ve never had trouble removing it before, but bikes that have never had this removed since they were new might struggle quite a bit.
The OEM applies microcapsule threadlocker pretty thoroughly, so without the right tools and experience, it’s not easy to remove.
When the damper here wears out, the engine naturally has some play. Of course, vibration gets transmitted to the handlebars more easily. This one was worn quite a bit overall.
We cleaned the crankcase side thoroughly and prepared to welcome the new engine damper.
Even though it’s not visible, I think it’s important to create an environment where replacement parts can be installed smoothly.
A little tangent! The meter is incredibly cool
Simple is best! It’s really cool.
Personally, I still prefer a white panel meter. A meter, fuel gauge, and oil temperature gauge—a simple setup. It’s cool and simple because there are no unnecessary extra gauges. And the fact that each manufacturer isn’t matched is also sophisticated.
We actually have this meter in stock, and I’d like to use it as a reference for something.
ポチップ
