[Zephyr 1100] Not just passing inspection. Update your peace of mind with Decoboco’s original inspection maintenance “Deco-mainte”

I was amazed when I saw and touched the titanium axle shaft for the first time in a while…
Wow! It’s so light.

Various parts have been subtly modified, so I’ll disassemble and check them carefully.

The shaft is crucial. It doesn’t bend easily, but

Once you check the axle shaft, you’re safe until you crash.
No issues found.

After going around three times, chain lube is DID.

After application, it goes from thin to slightly more viscous.
Low viscosity penetrates easily but tends to splatter.

After going around three times, I’ve come back to DID. It doesn’t splatter, so there’s less cleanup.
That’s the impression I get.

I apply it from the inside with a whoosh and work it in by rubbing.
This way, you can feel tight links and the wear on the chain itself (how rough it is).
If I notice a link isn’t moving well, it’s time to call 110.

Steering checked with the front wheel lifted.

Of course, you can’t check it without lifting the front.
You can’t tell with just a front stand.
Since few bikes have center stands, this is a spot that’s often overlooked.

It gradually gets worse over time. If you’ve bought a used bike, it’s worth lifting it up and checking.

It’s good to lubricate and oil the dust seals when the wheel is lifted.

Brake disc degreasing, thickness check, and pad refresh.

Brake discs have more dust buildup than you’d think.
Just a thorough degreasing and cleaning, then re-bedding the brake pads
improves the brake feel significantly.

When replacing brake discs, always do it as a set with pads.
Front and rear have plenty of material left, so you’re good.

The surface hardens. Just peeling back one layer revives it quite a bit.
It’s especially effective for people with slight squeaking.

I was surprised to find that the stock calipers have aluminum pistons front and rear…

First cleaning, second lubrication.

Just a little lubrication on the cables makes a huge difference.
Basically, “tight spots are the problem,” so I don’t think you need to lubricate heavily.
If you need a lot of lubrication to make it smooth, it means the cable is degrading and needs replacement.

I only use this lubricant.
Triflow is no longer imported and is now sold under the alternative name PT Flow.
In any case, the lubrication lasts very well and works quickly and effectively.
One can lasts forever, so it’s actually a cost-effective lubricant.

Since it’s PTFE, it won’t dissolve in chemicals or gasoline.

The speedometer cable also lasts surprisingly long with just occasional cleaning and lubrication.

Check the final drive ratio.

Checking the final drive makes future replacements easier.
Plus, changing the final drive subtly changes the bike’s character, so it’s useful to know.

The clutch release looks healthy, so I’m relieved (*´ω｀*)
Unrelated, but Yamaha seems to leak easily…

Twin plugs! Eight of them.

Well, it’s amazing they even sold twin plugs commercially.
You can feel Kawasaki’s spirit in moments like this.

#1 is particularly pinging. For now, I decided to reuse it.

Subtly, the stock CVK carb is used with a 2mm bore upgrade. Pretty niche!
I’ll check the large air filter.
The inside looks like filter paper, so I just blew it out without washing.

The mounting is modified, so replacing it might be a bit of work.

I synchronized the carbs. They were slightly off.

Brake fluid is Golden Cruiser.

Everything was in good condition. I replaced it all with Golden Cruiser.

Now for a test ride to finish (*´ω｀*)